Cuenca's food scene is deeply rooted in the highlands of Azuay province, where hearty mountain cooking has evolved over centuries into something genuinely soul-satisfying. The undisputed local icon is cuy — roasted guinea pig, crackling-skinned and served whole, often alongside mote (hominy corn), potatoes, and ají sauce. It's a dish that demands a little courage from first-timers but rewards them handsomely. Equally beloved is seco de chivo, a slow-braised goat stew fragrant with chicha de jora and herbs that tastes like a grandmother's Sunday kitchen.

For the full sensory experience, head to the Mercado 10 de Agosto or the sprawling Mercado 3 de Noviembre, where market ladies ladle out steaming bowls of caldo de gallina criolla — free-range hen broth so rich it borders on medicinal — for just a dollar or two. Llapingachos, golden potato-and-cheese patties crisped on a griddle, appear at nearly every stall and make an ideal breakfast alongside a glass of fresh-pressed naranjilla juice. Don't overlook hornado, a whole roasted pig that vendors carve to order with practiced precision.

For sit-down meals with genuine character, Restaurante Guajibamba on Calle Larga is a local institution known for its cuy and river-view terrace. El Maíz brings a modern, thoughtful lens to Ecuadorian highland ingredients without losing any authenticity. And when evening calls for something lighter, grab a paper cone of chifles or a warm piece of quesillo from a street cart near Parque Calderón — Cuenca rewards the wandering eater at every hour of the day.