Overview
Bregenzerwald is a forested valley region in the western Austrian state of Vorarlberg, stretching roughly east of the state capital Bregenz into the Bregenzer Ache river valley and its tributaries. It encompasses around 20 municipalities, ranging from small farming hamlets to modest resort villages such as Schoppernau, Au, Bezau, and Schwarzenberg.
The region is quietly celebrated for two things that rarely appear together: outstanding architecture and exceptional dairy farming. A cooperative of local builders and craftspeople known as the Vorarlberg Baukünstler has produced a body of contemporary rural architecture — bus shelters, farmhouses, community buildings — that has attracted serious international attention from architects and design enthusiasts.
Bregenzerwald is also the heart of Bregenzerwald cheese country. The area's mountain pastures support dairy herds whose milk produces a range of traditional cheeses, including Bergkäse and Vorarlberger Alpkäse, the latter holding PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status in the European Union.
Despite its cultural and culinary credentials, Bregenzerwald remains relatively unhurried and uncrowded compared to the Tyrolean Alps further east, making it a genuine alternative for travelers who want alpine scenery and authentic local culture without the mass-tourism infrastructure.
Before You Go
Visas
Austria is a member of the Schengen Area. For visa requirements specific to your nationality, consult TravelerPulse's Visas section and check the official Austrian Foreign Ministry website before travel.
When to go
- Winter (December–March): Ski resorts such as Damüls and Mellau are active. Snow conditions vary by year; verify locally before booking a ski-focused trip.
- Summer (June–September): Ideal for hiking, cycling, and the cheese-trail experience. Alpine wildflowers peak in June and July.
- Shoulder seasons (April–May, October–November): Many mountain facilities close. Some guesthouses and ski lifts operate only seasonally; confirm opening periods with individual operators before arrival.
What to pack
Layering is essential in any season. Mountain weather can change rapidly, and even summer hikers should carry a waterproof layer. Sturdy walking shoes or hiking boots are advisable for anyone planning to explore trails.
Getting There
By air
The nearest commercial airport is Friedrichshafen Airport (FDH) in Germany, roughly 40–60 km from the Bregenzerwald area depending on your destination village. Zurich Airport (ZRH) in Switzerland and Innsbruck Airport (INN) in Austria are also used by travelers, though they involve longer transfer times. Verify current flight options and transfer routes with your airline or a booking platform.
By train and bus
The town of Bregenz is the main rail hub for Vorarlberg, served by Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) connections from Innsbruck, Vienna, and international routes via Switzerland and Germany. From Bregenz, regional bus lines (Landbus Bregenzerwald) operate into the valley, connecting major villages. Schedules and fares should be verified on the Vorarlberg Verkehrsverbund (VVV) regional transport authority website.
By car
Driving is the most flexible option for exploring smaller villages and accessing trailheads. The main access road into the valley runs along the Bregenzer Ache from Bregenz. Winter travelers should ensure their vehicle is equipped with winter tires (legally required in Austria under certain conditions) and should monitor road closure information locally.
Getting Around
Within Bregenzerwald, the Landbus Bregenzerwald regional bus network connects most inhabited villages and is a reasonable option for travel between larger settlements. Frequency decreases significantly in the off-season and on Sundays; plan accordingly.
Cycling is popular in summer, and dedicated routes exist along the valley floor. Electric bike rental is available in several villages — confirm availability and locations with local tourist offices, as offerings change seasonally.
For the most flexibility, particularly if visiting multiple small communities or trailheads, a rental car remains the practical choice. Roads are generally well-maintained but can be narrow in higher villages.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Bregenzerwald is dominated by family-run Gasthäuser, Pension guesthouses, and farm stays (Urlaub am Bauernhof). These range from very modest to comfortable three-star standard. A smaller number of design-conscious hotels exist in villages such as Bezau. Larger resort-style hotels are concentrated near ski areas in Damüls and Mellau.
Farm stays are a genuine option here and represent a way to engage directly with the dairy farming culture the region is known for. The Urlaub am Bauernhof Austria network lists participating farms; confirm current listings and availability on their website.
Booking well in advance is strongly recommended for the peak winter ski weeks (late December through February) and July–August. The shoulder seasons generally offer more availability. Visitors should note that many smaller properties have minimum stay requirements, particularly in high season.
Things to See & Do
Hiking and alpine activities
Bregenzerwald has an extensive network of marked trails ranging from gentle valley walks to demanding ridge hikes. The Vorarlberg hiking portal (verify current URL locally or through the regional tourism board) publishes trail maps and difficulty ratings. Popular areas include the Hochhäderich ridge and the Diedamskopf, which is also accessible by cable car from Au.
Skiing
Damüls and Mellau are the principal ski areas, linked into the Ski Arlberg-adjacent Damüls-Mellau-Faschina ski region. Schwarzenberg and Bezau offer smaller, family-oriented slopes. Current lift pass prices and ski rental rates should be checked directly with the resort operators.
KäseStrasse Bregenzerwald (Cheese Road)
This is a self-guided food and culture trail connecting farms, dairies, and cheese-aging facilities across the region. Visitors can book tastings and farm visits through the KäseStrasse association; confirm scheduling and booking requirements on their official website.
Architecture
The Bregenzerwald architecture trail highlights projects by the Werkraum Bregenzerwald craft and design cooperative. The Werkraum building in Andelsbuch, designed by Peter Zumthor's Atelier, serves as a center for exhibitions and craft showcases. Verify opening days before visiting.
Schwarzenberg village
Blackenberg is one of the most visually intact historic villages in the region, known for its parish church and connections to the 18th-century painter Angelika Kauffmann. A small museum dedicated to Kauffmann is located in the village; verify current opening hours locally.
Food & Drink
Regional cheese and dairy
Bregenzerwald's identity is deeply tied to its dairy tradition. Vorarlberger Alpkäse (mountain cheese made on high-summer pastures) and Bergkäse (a similar but lower-altitude variety) are widely available at farm shops, village markets, and restaurants. The flavor profile is nutty and robust, varying by producer and aging time.
Traditional cuisine
Vorarlberg cuisine differs noticeably from eastern Austrian cooking. Käsknöpfle — small egg-pasta dumplings baked with local cheese and topped with crispy onions — is the regional staple and appears on virtually every traditional menu. Kaspressknödel (cheese dumplings served in broth) and Riebel (a toasted cornmeal dish) are also characteristic of the area.
Dining options
Restaurants range from simple Gasthäuser (guesthouses with dining rooms) to a small number of more refined establishments in larger villages. Given the rural character of much of the valley, independent travelers should be aware that kitchens often close between lunch and dinner service, and advance reservations are advisable in summer and ski season. Prices vary; verify directly with establishments.
Practical Information
Money
ATMs are available in larger villages such as Bezau and Au, but coverage is sparse in smaller hamlets. Carrying some cash is advisable. Card acceptance varies among smaller farms and independent retailers.
Internet and phone
Mobile coverage is generally good along the main valley floor but may be limited or absent on higher trails and remote pastures. Free Wi-Fi is offered by some guesthouses and the regional transport authority, but should not be relied upon in remote areas.
Emergency services
Austria's general emergency number is 112 (Europe-wide). Mountain rescue (Bergrettung) can be reached through the same number. Inform someone of your hiking plans and expected return time when heading into the mountains.
Tourist information
The Bregenzerwald Tourismus office, based in Egg, is the primary regional tourism authority. They produce trail maps, event calendars, and accommodation lists. Verify their current contact details and website through a search, as URLs and office details can change.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Bregenzerwald communities maintain a strong sense of regional identity rooted in the Walsers — a Germanic-speaking people who settled many of Vorarlberg's high valleys in the medieval period — as well as centuries of alpine farming culture. Traditional dress (Tracht) is worn at community events and folk festivals, not primarily as a tourist display.
The Werkraum Bregenzerwald cooperative represents a contemporary expression of this craft tradition. Local builders, carpenters, and artisans have chosen to evolve traditional skills rather than abandon them, producing work that has drawn international architectural attention while remaining grounded in local materials and context.
Visitors should be aware that this is a working farming region, not a theme park. Trails crossing private alpine pastures (Alpen) should be treated respectfully, gates should be left as found, and livestock should not be disturbed. The cheese and farming economy is the community's livelihood.
