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Overview
Arles is a small city of roughly 50,000 people in the Bouches-du-Rhône department of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, sitting at the point where the Rhône delta fans out into the Camargue. It was one of the most important cities in the western Roman Empire, and that past is legible everywhere: an amphitheatre, a theatre, thermal baths, a necropolis, and a Roman circus all survive in varying states of preservation, collectively earning the historic centre UNESCO World Heritage status.
Arles is also inseparable from Vincent van Gogh, who lived and worked here between 1888 and 1889 and produced some of his most celebrated canvases in the surrounding landscapes. The city has embraced that legacy thoughtfully, including through the Fondation Vincent van Gogh, without turning it into pure kitsch.
Beyond heritage, Arles functions as the practical and cultural capital of the Camargue region — a vast wetland of flamingos, white horses, black bulls, and rice paddies immediately to the south. The city also hosts the Rencontres d'Arles, one of the world's most respected annual photography festivals, held each summer since 1970. All of this makes Arles punching well above its size for visitors.
Before You Go
Visas
France is part of the Schengen Area. Visa requirements depend on your nationality and the duration and purpose of your visit. Do not rely on generalised summaries — check TravelerPulse's Visas section and consult the official website of the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs or your nearest French consulate well before travel.
When to Go
Spring (April–June) brings warm, clear days and wildflowers across the Camargue. Summer is the busiest period; July in particular coincides with the Rencontres d'Arles photography festival, which draws significant crowds and can tighten accommodation availability — book early if visiting then. September and October offer excellent weather with noticeably fewer visitors. Winters are mild by northern European standards but the Mistral wind — a powerful, cold, dry wind funnelled down the Rhône valley — can make any season feel sharper; it blows most often in winter and spring.
Health and Insurance
No unusual health precautions are required for Arles. EU/EEA citizens should carry a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) or its successor; all other visitors should carry comprehensive travel health insurance. Tick awareness is advisable if you plan extensive walking in Camargue wetlands — verify current recommendations with a travel health clinic before departure.
What to Pack
- A windproof layer for Mistral days, even in summer
- Comfortable walking shoes; the historic centre has uneven cobblestones
- Sun protection — Provençal sun is intense from May onward
- A reusable water bottle; public fountains are common
Getting There
By Air
The nearest major airport is Marseille Provence Airport (MRS) in Marignane, roughly 70–80 km from Arles. From there, a combination of bus and train or a direct shuttle can reach Arles; verify current connections and schedules locally or via the airport's official website. Nîmes Alès Camargue Cévennes Airport (FNI) is smaller and closer — check seasonal route availability.
By Train
Arles has its own SNCF railway station with direct and connecting services from Marseille, Avignon, and Nîmes, all of which are on or near high-speed TGV lines. From Paris, the typical route involves a TGV to Avignon or Marseille followed by a regional connection. Verify timetables and fares on the official SNCF website (sncf-connect.com) or at the station.
By Car
Arles sits near the A54 motorway linking Nîmes and Salon-de-Provence, making it straightforward to reach by car from most of the south of France. Parking in the walled historic centre is limited; using a peripheral car park and walking in is advisable during peak season.
By Bus
Regional coach services connect Arles to Avignon, Marseille, Nîmes, and several Camargue villages. Verify current routes and operators with the local tourist office or regional transport authority.
Getting Around
The historic core of Arles is compact and best explored on foot; most of the major Roman and medieval monuments are within comfortable walking distance of each other. Uneven paving in the old town means wheeled luggage and mobility aids can be challenging in some areas.
Bicycles are a popular and practical choice, particularly for reaching the Camargue and the Van Gogh walking trails in the surrounding countryside. Several local hire shops operate in Arles — verify availability and rates locally. Dedicated cycle paths extend south toward the Camargue natural park.
For the wider Camargue — including the Étang de Vaccarès lagoon and the beach at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer — a car or organised tour is the most practical option, as public transport is limited outside the town. Local tour operators run half-day and full-day jeep, horse, and boat excursions into the Camargue; compare options at the tourist office.
Things to See & Do
Roman and Medieval Monuments
The Arènes d'Arles (amphitheatre) is the city's most iconic structure — built in the 1st century AD, it still hosts bullfights and concerts today and is open to visitors year-round (verify hours and fees on the official site or at the ticket office). The nearby Théâtre Antique is a Roman theatre from the same era, now a roofless ruin used for summer performances. The Alyscamps, a Roman and early Christian necropolis on the city's edge, was painted by both Van Gogh and Gauguin and remains a quiet, atmospheric site. The Cryptoportiques, semi-subterranean Roman galleries beneath the forum, offer a less-visited but fascinating perspective.
Van Gogh Sites
The Fondation Vincent van Gogh presents rotating exhibitions responding to Van Gogh's legacy, often including works from major international collections — check their current programme before visiting. Because Van Gogh's hospital and many of his painting sites remain standing, the city has placed Espace Van Gogh (the former hospital courtyard) and a network of pavement markers at the spots where specific canvases were painted, allowing visitors to compare landscape to painting.
Photography and Contemporary Art
The Rencontres d'Arles photography festival (typically July through September) transforms the city with exhibitions in historic buildings, churches, and purpose-built spaces. Year-round, the LUMA Arles campus — anchored by a striking tower designed by Frank Gehry and opened in 2021 — presents contemporary art and creative research in a converted railway workshop district called Parc des Ateliers. Verify current opening hours and exhibition schedules on the LUMA website.
The Camargue
The Camargue Regional Natural Park begins almost immediately south of the city. The Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue protects flamingo colonies, free-roaming horses and black Camargue bulls, salt flats, and coastal wetlands. The town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, roughly 40 km south, is the main Camargue settlement and a pilgrimage destination. Birdwatching is exceptional in spring and autumn.
Food & Drink
Arles sits at a productive intersection of Provençal and Camarguais food culture. Local specialities worth seeking include taureau gardian — a slow-cooked stew of Camargue black bull beef, usually with olives and herbs — and tellines, tiny local clams sautéed in garlic and white wine or pastis. Camargue red rice, grown in the delta's paddies, appears as a side dish or salad base in many restaurants. Gardiane de taureau (a similar bull stew) and grilled cuts of Camargue beef are common on menus around the bullfighting season.
Olives, olive oil, and goat's cheese from the broader Provence region are table staples. The Les Halles d'Arles covered market on Boulevard Émile Combes is the main daily market for local produce, charcuterie, cheese, and seasonal vegetables — typically busiest on weekend mornings (verify current hours locally).
Wines from the Rhône valley — particularly from nearby appellations such as Costières de Nîmes and the broader Rhône appellations — are widely poured. Pastis, the anise-flavoured spirit, is the emblematic aperitif of the south.
The restaurant scene ranges from simple brasseries around Place du Forum to more considered Provençal cooking; the tourist office can advise on current well-regarded options, which change frequently. Booking ahead is advisable during festival periods.
Shopping
Arles is not a major shopping city but offers a good selection of Provençal craft and food goods. Look for:
- Santon figurines — hand-painted clay figures associated with Provençal nativity scenes, made by several local artisans
- Camargue sea salt and fleur de sel from the nearby Salins du Midi salt works
- Camargue red rice in sealed bags — a practical and genuine regional souvenir
- Olive oil and tapenade from local producers; quality varies, so look for bottles indicating the specific estate or appellation
- Photography books and prints — given the Rencontres d'Arles, the city has several bookshops and galleries with strong photography sections
- Arlésien textiles — Provençal fabrics in traditional patterns are sold at several boutiques around the old town
The Saturday morning market along Boulevard des Lices is the most substantial weekly market and worth visiting for both food and non-food goods. Verify any temporary closure dates locally.
Practical Information
Money
ATMs are available throughout the city centre. Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in hotels, larger restaurants, and shops, though some smaller markets, cafés, and artisan stalls are cash-only. Carry some euros in small denominations.
Connectivity
Free Wi-Fi is available in many hotels and cafés. French mobile networks (Orange, SFR, Bouygues, Free) provide good coverage in the city; coverage thins out in remote Camargue areas.
Electricity
France uses Type E plugs (two round pins plus a grounding hole) at 230V/50Hz. Visitors from the UK, US, and many other countries will need an adapter.
Language
French is the only official language. In Arles, as in much of provincial France, English is spoken in hotels, major tourist sites, and some restaurants, but less reliably in local shops and markets. A few basic French courtesies — bonjour, merci, s'il vous plaît — are genuinely appreciated and go a long way.
Emergency Numbers
- European emergency number: 112 (works throughout France)
- Police: 17 | Fire (Pompiers): 18 | SAMU (medical emergency): 15
Tourist Office
The Arles tourist office (Office de Tourisme d'Arles) is located near the city centre and is the most reliable local source for up-to-date maps, transport connections, event listings, and guided tour bookings. Verify their current address and hours before visiting.
Safety
Arles is generally a safe city for travellers. Standard urban precautions apply: be aware of your surroundings in crowded festival or market areas where pickpocketing can occur, and secure your belongings accordingly.
The Camargue wetlands present some specific considerations: mosquitoes are active in summer, particularly near standing water, so insect repellent is advisable. Flash flooding can affect low-lying areas near the Rhône and in the delta after heavy rain; check local weather forecasts. Visitors planning off-road or waterway excursions in the Camargue should go with a knowledgeable guide.
During bullfighting events at the amphitheatre, the surrounding streets can become very busy; plan movement through the city centre accordingly if you are not attending.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Arles has a strong local identity rooted in Provençal culture — the Occitan language, traditional dress (the Arlésienne costume), and the bullfighting tradition (la corrida) are all taken seriously by a meaningful portion of the population. The bullfighting calendar is a genuine part of civic life, not just a tourist attraction, and events in the Roman amphitheatre draw large local crowds. Visitors should be aware that attitudes toward bullfighting are deeply divided; approach the subject with sensitivity.
The Camargue gardian (cowboy) culture — horsemanship, cattle herding, the Fête des Gardians held in late April — is another living tradition in and around Arles, not a performance mounted for visitors.
The Rencontres d'Arles photography festival was founded in 1970 by local photographer Lucien Clergue together with writer Michel Tournier and art historian Jean-Maurice Rouquette. It has grown into one of the world's most influential photography gatherings without losing its roots in the city — many exhibitions take place in genuine historic spaces rather than purpose-built venues, which makes it an unusually atmospheric festival.
In general, the people of Arles take pride in their history and do not particularly appreciate it being treated as a backdrop. Respectful curiosity is always the right approach.
