Orkney Islands Scotland Travel Guide

The Orkney Islands sit roughly 16 kilometres off the northern tip of mainland Scotland, separated from Caithness by the Pentland Firth. The archipelago comprises around 70 islands, of which roughly 20 are inhabited. Despite their remote latitude, the islands are remarkably fertile — flat green farmland meeting dramatic sea cliffs — and have been continuously settled for more than 5,000 years.

Orkney's Neolithic and Norse heritage is extraordinary in density and preservation. The Heart of Neolithic Orkney is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, grouping Skara Brae, the Standing Stones of Stenness, the Ring of Brodgar, and Maeshowe chambered cairn. Viking and later Norse rule left a lasting imprint on local names, dialect, and identity; many Orcadians identify with their Norse past as much as with Scotland.

The islands are also a living community of around 22,000 people engaged in farming, fishing, distilling, and a growing renewable-energy sector. Visitors are welcome but are entering a working landscape, not a theme park. Respectful curiosity — rather than a checklist mentality — suits Orkney well.

Visas and Entry

Orkney is part of the United Kingdom. Entry requirements follow UK immigration rules. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section and the UK Visas and Immigration authority (UKVI) for current requirements applicable to your nationality.

When to Go

• May–September: The most practical window. Days are long (Midsummer brings nearly continuous twilight), most visitor sites are fully open, and ferry/flight schedules are at maximum frequency.
• October–April: Fewer crowds, possible Northern Lights sightings, and a raw, atmospheric quality to the landscape. Some smaller attractions close or reduce hours. Weather can be severe and ferries occasionally disrupted. Verify schedules locally before travelling.

What to Pack

Orkney's weather is famously changeable at any time of year. Waterproof and windproof outer layers are essential even in summer. Layers are more useful than heavy single garments. Sturdy walking boots are advisable for coastal paths and archaeological sites.

Health

No vaccinations are required beyond routine UK recommendations. The nearest major hospital is in Kirkwall (Balfour Hospital); verify current services before travel if you have specific medical needs. Travel insurance covering medical repatriation is strongly recommended for remote island visits.

By Air

Kirkwall Airport (KOI) on the Mainland is Orkney's main airport. Loganair operates scheduled services connecting Kirkwall to Inverness, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Glasgow, and Bergen (Norway), among others. Flight times from Scottish cities are typically under an hour. Check Loganair's current timetable directly, as schedules vary by season.

Loganair also runs inter-island air services — some of the shortest scheduled commercial flights in the world — connecting Mainland to smaller islands including Papa Westray, Westray, Sanday, Stronsay, and North Ronaldsay. Booking ahead is essential, especially in summer.

By Sea

NorthLink Ferries operates overnight and daytime sailings between Scrabster (near Thurso, Caithness) and Stromness, and between Aberdeen and Kirkwall, with some routes also calling at Lerwick in Shetland. Journey times and frequencies vary; check NorthLink's current schedule and book cabins well in advance during peak season.

Pentland Ferries and John O'Groats Ferries offer shorter crossings (roughly 1–2 hours) from northern Caithness to South Ronaldsay / St Margaret's Hope during the relevant operating season. Verify current operators and timetables before travel.

On the Mainland

Having your own vehicle or a hire car gives the greatest flexibility; several hire firms operate from Kirkwall. Roads are generally good but single-track in rural areas — use passing places courteously. Kirkwall and Stromness are the two main towns and are comfortably walkable.

A local bus network connects Kirkwall to Stromness and several settlements on the Mainland. Timetables are limited compared to urban Scotland; verify schedules with Orkney Council's transport information or locally on arrival.

Reaching the Outer Islands

Orkney Ferries runs scheduled inter-island ferry services from Kirkwall to most inhabited islands. Frequency varies considerably by island — some have multiple daily sailings, others one or two per week. If you intend to take a vehicle to an outer island, book ferry space well in advance. Foot-passenger travel is generally easier to arrange on shorter notice.

For smaller northern islands, Loganair's inter-island air service is a practical alternative (see Getting There). The eight-minute Papa Westray–Westray flight is a popular experience in its own right.

Kirkwall offers the widest range of accommodation including hotels, guesthouses, and B&Bs. Stromness has a smaller but characterful selection including independent guesthouses. Self-catering cottages are widespread across the Mainland and outer islands, and often represent the best value and most practical option for those exploring beyond the main towns.

Camping is possible at several sites; camping in the open countryside falls under Scottish access rights but requires responsible practice (carry out all waste, use existing facilities where available, follow Leave No Trace principles). Wild camping near archaeological sites should be approached with particular care.

On outer islands, accommodation options can be very limited and should be booked well in advance regardless of season. It is worth contacting local island heritage or tourism groups for up-to-date recommendations, as small properties open and close over time.

Neolithic and Norse Heritage

• Skara Brae: A Neolithic village preserved under sand for millennia, revealing stone furniture and domestic detail from around 3100 BCE. Managed by Historic Environment Scotland; verify opening hours and admission fees on their official site.
• Ring of Brodgar and Standing Stones of Stenness: Open-air stone circles in the Loch of Harray/Stenness area. Free to access; no booking required.
• Maeshowe: A chambered tomb aligned with the midwinter sunset, containing Viking runic inscriptions. Guided tours only; book through Historic Environment Scotland.
• Brough of Birsay: A tidal island with Pictish and Norse remains accessible on foot at low tide. Check tidal tables before visiting.
• Italian Chapel: A remarkable World War II chapel built by Italian prisoners of war using two Nissen huts and scavenged materials on Lamb Holm. Free to enter (donations welcome); verify current access locally.

Wildlife and Landscape

Orkney's coast is rich in seabirds — puffins, guillemots, razorbills, gannets, and Arctic terns are regularly seen in season. Orkney's RSPB reserves (including Hobbister and Trumland on Rousay) provide structured wildlife access. Grey and common seals haul out on many shores. Cetaceans including harbour porpoises are seen around the coast; verify seasonal whale-watching opportunities with local operators.

Hoy offers the most dramatic topography in the archipelago, including the Old Man of Hoy sea stack and the Ward Hill summit walk. Walking on cliff edges requires care; maintain safe distances.

Whisky and Distilleries

Highland Park Distillery in Kirkwall is one of the world's most northerly Scotch whisky distilleries and offers tours. Scapa Distillery also operates on the Mainland. Verify tour availability, booking requirements, and current fees directly with each distillery.

Orkney has a strong local food culture rooted in its agricultural and maritime economy. Orcadian beef (from locally raised cattle) has a long-standing reputation for quality. Seafood — crab, lobster, scallops, and locally caught fish — features prominently across island menus. Orkney cheddar and other dairy products are widely available.

Kirkwall and Stromness each have a reasonable range of cafés, pubs, and restaurants catering to various budgets. Options thin out considerably on outer islands, where self-catering accommodation often makes more sense than relying on restaurant availability. If you are visiting smaller islands for day trips, bring food and drink or confirm in advance that a café is open.

Orkney ale is brewed locally by several producers including the Orkney Brewery (based in Stromness area). Local gin and whisky are also increasingly produced across the islands. The two Highland Park and Scapa expressions are the most internationally recognised Orcadian whiskies.

Money

Kirkwall and Stromness have ATMs and most businesses accept card payments. On smaller outer islands, cash is often essential — do not assume card facilities will be available.

Connectivity

Mobile coverage on the Mainland is generally adequate in towns but patchy in rural areas and on smaller islands. Broadband and Wi-Fi availability in accommodation varies; verify with your host before booking if connectivity is important.

Emergency Services

Dial 999 for police, fire, ambulance, or coastguard in any emergency. The coastguard is a critical service given Orkney's maritime environment. If venturing to remote areas or sea cliffs, ensure someone knows your plans and expected return time.

Useful Contacts

Orkney.com (the official Orkney Islands Council tourism resource) is a reliable starting point for current visitor information. Historic Environment Scotland's website covers managed heritage sites. Verify all opening hours, fees, and ferry/flight bookings directly with the relevant operators before travel.

Orcadian identity is distinct and valued. Locals often describe themselves as Orcadian first, Scottish second, and will gently note that their Norse heritage is as significant as their Scottish one. Visitors who show genuine interest in this layered history are invariably welcomed warmly.

The landscape is considered sacred by many residents in a secular as well as spiritual sense — the density of burial sites, standing stones, and ancient settlements means you are frequently walking through ground of profound historical significance. Treat all archaeological sites with care: do not climb on standing stones or megalithic structures, and follow any signage at managed sites.

The St Magnus Festival (typically held in June in Kirkwall) is an internationally regarded classical and contemporary music festival. The Ba' — a mass street football game played in Kirkwall on Christmas Day and New Year's Day — is one of Scotland's most distinctive local traditions. Verify dates and any current arrangements locally if you plan your visit around these events.