Overview
Varanasi — also known as Kashi or Benares — sits on the western bank of the Ganges in the state of Uttar Pradesh. It is widely regarded as one of the oldest continuously inhabited urban settlements on earth, with a recorded history stretching back at least 3,000 years. For Hindus it is among the most sacred cities in existence: dying here is believed to confer liberation from the cycle of rebirth.
The city's defining feature is its ghats — a long sequence of stone steps descending to the river, each with its own name, character, and ritual function. Boat rides along this waterfront at dawn reveal a panorama of daily life that has remained structurally unchanged for centuries: pilgrims bathing, priests conducting prayers, flower offerings floating downstream.
Beyond its spiritual identity, Varanasi is a living centre of classical Indian arts. It has produced some of India's most celebrated musicians and is closely associated with Hindustani classical music, the tabla, and the shehnai. The city's textile tradition — hand-woven Banarasi silk brocade — carries a Geographical Indication tag and remains one of the finest in South Asia.
Visitors arrive expecting intensity and generally find it. The old city's lanes are narrow, loud, and layered with history. Coexisting alongside ancient temples and cremation grounds is a busy university town (Banaras Hindu University is one of the largest residential universities in Asia) and a growing modern city beyond the riverfront.
Before You Go
Visas
Most international visitors require a visa to enter India. Requirements, fees, and e-visa eligibility change regularly. Check the TravelerPulse Visas section and the official Indian government immigration portal for current rules before booking.
Health
- Consult a travel medicine clinic 6–8 weeks before departure. Vaccinations for hepatitis A, typhoid, and tetanus are commonly recommended for travel to this region.
- The Ganges at Varanasi carries high levels of bacterial contamination. Avoid swallowing river water; some travellers choose not to wade in at all. Verify the latest health advisories with your physician.
- Carry a basic medical kit including oral rehydration salts, as stomach upsets are common, particularly for first-time visitors.
- Mosquito repellent is advisable, especially during and after the monsoon (July–September).
Seasons to Know
- October–March: Cool and dry. Peak tourist season; book accommodation in advance, especially around Diwali and Dev Deepawali.
- April–June: Very hot (temperatures routinely exceed 40 °C / 104 °F). Feasible but demanding.
- July–September: Monsoon. High humidity, heavy rains, and occasional flooding of lower ghats. Fewer crowds and lower prices.
Getting There
By Air
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) is located approximately 25 km north of the city centre. It handles direct domestic connections from major Indian cities including Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, and Kolkata. Some international charter and seasonal flights operate; check current schedules with your airline or a booking platform, as routes change. Taxis and app-based cabs are available from the airport to the city; agree on a fare or use a meter before departing.
By Train
Varanasi Junction (BSB) is well connected to the national rail network, with services from Delhi (approx. 8–12 hours depending on train), Mumbai, Kolkata, and most major cities. Mughal Sarai / Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction (DDU), about 18 km away, is an even larger junction that some long-distance trains use — confirm which station your train serves. Book tickets in advance through the Indian Railways official platform; berths on popular routes fill quickly.
By Road
Long-distance buses connect Varanasi to Lucknow, Allahabad (Prayagraj), Agra, and other Uttar Pradesh cities. Journey times vary significantly with traffic and road conditions. Private taxis and shared cabs are also an option for regional travel.
Getting Around
The old city (the area around the ghats and the main temples) is largely inaccessible to motor vehicles. Walking is both necessary and, for many visitors, the most rewarding way to explore the narrow lanes known as galis.
- Cycle rickshaws are practical for short distances outside the gali network and are widely available.
- Auto-rickshaws cover broader distances. Agree on a fare before setting off, or confirm the meter is running.
- App-based cab services (Ola, Uber) operate in Varanasi and can be convenient for trips to the airport, railway station, or Sarnath. Availability in the inner city is limited.
- Boats on the Ganges: Rowboats are the traditional and atmospheric way to see the ghats. Rates should be negotiated at the ghat; pre-dawn and early-morning slots command premium prices. Motorised boats are also available.
- E-rickshaws have become increasingly common and offer a low-emission option for some routes.
Be aware that the lanes of the old city can be disorienting. Offline maps downloaded in advance (Google Maps, Maps.me) are genuinely useful. Allow extra time for any journey during festival periods.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Varanasi ranges from basic guesthouses in the old city lanes to mid-range hotels and a small number of upscale heritage properties. Location is a significant decision.
Old City / Ghat Area
Staying within walking distance of the ghats gives the most immediate access to the riverfront, morning rituals, and the old city's atmosphere. Trade-offs include narrow, often noisy streets, limited vehicle access (which affects luggage logistics), and variable hygiene standards at the budget end. Many guesthouses in this zone offer Ganges views from rooftop restaurants, which are among the most pleasant places to eat in the city.
Cantonment / Civil Lines Area
The area around the cantonment and Civil Lines, between the old city and the railway station, offers a broader range of mid-range and upscale hotels, more reliable infrastructure, and easier vehicle access. The trade-off is a less atmospheric setting requiring transport to reach the ghats.
General Advice
- Book well in advance for major festivals, especially Dev Deepawali (the full moon of Kartik, typically November) and Diwali, when the city fills completely.
- Read recent reviews carefully for guesthouses in the old city, as conditions can change quickly.
- Confirm whether your accommodation has reliable hot water and a generator for power cuts, both of which are relevant practical considerations.
Things to See & Do
The Ghats
Varanasi has more than 80 ghats stretching along roughly 7 km of riverbank. Each has its own significance. Dashashwamedh Ghat is the most central and is where the nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony takes place — a coordinated fire-and-incense ritual performed by priests that draws large crowds. Arrive early to secure a viewpoint or watch from a boat on the river. Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat are the city's two cremation grounds, operating continuously. Observing from a respectful distance is generally accepted; photography here is strongly discouraged and considered deeply disrespectful.
Temples
Kashi Vishwanath Temple (the Golden Temple) is dedicated to Shiva and is one of the twelve jyotirlingas in India. Entry rules for non-Hindus vary and should be verified locally before visiting. Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple is another significant temple with a more open atmosphere. The city contains thousands of smaller shrines embedded in its lanes.
Sarnath
Located about 10 km from central Varanasi, Sarnath is where the Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. The Dhamek Stupa (5th–6th century CE) and the excellent Sarnath Archaeological Museum — which houses the Lion Capital of Ashoka, the national emblem of India — make this a half-day excursion well worth taking. Verify museum opening days and hours before visiting.
Arts and Culture
- Attend a classical music or dance performance; the Sankat Mochan Music Festival (typically held in spring) and other cultural events take place throughout the year.
- Visit the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum at Banaras Hindu University, which holds a substantial collection of miniature paintings, sculptures, and textiles. Verify access and hours in advance.
- Sunrise boat rides on the Ganges are widely considered a defining experience of the city.
Food & Drink
Varanasi has a strong culinary identity rooted in its status as a pilgrimage city. The food culture leans heavily vegetarian, though non-vegetarian options exist in parts of the city.
What to Try
- Kachori-sabzi: A fried pastry served with a spiced potato-and-tomato curry; a classic Banarasi breakfast found at street stalls across the old city.
- Thandai: A chilled milk drink spiced with nuts, rose, cardamom, and sometimes cannabis (bhang). Bhang-laced versions are legal and widely available at licensed shops, particularly around festivals — consume cautiously.
- Banarasi paan: Betel leaf prepared with various fillings; the meetha (sweet) version is a mild introduction. Paan is ubiquitous and a cultural institution.
- Malaiyo / Nimish: A seasonal frothy milk-based sweet available in winter mornings; extremely light and mildly flavoured.
- Chaat: Varanasi has a distinct chaat culture — tamatar chaat (tomato-based) is a local specialty.
- Lassi: Available in earthenware pots (kullads) at numerous shops; the area around Dashashwamedh Ghat is particularly known for it.
Practical Notes
- Street food quality varies considerably. Cooked-to-order items from busy, visibly hygienic stalls are generally lower risk.
- Many restaurants in the old city are alcohol-free. Licensed restaurants and some hotels serve alcohol; Uttar Pradesh has its own excise rules — verify what is available where.
- Tap water is not safe to drink. Use sealed bottled water or a travel filter.
Shopping
Varanasi is one of India's most significant craft cities and shopping here can be genuinely rewarding — but requires patience and some caution.
Banarasi Silk
The city is famous for hand-woven Banarasi silk saris and fabric, distinguished by their intricate gold and silver zari brocade work. Quality and price vary enormously. The weaving clusters in neighbourhoods such as Madanpura and Lallapura welcome some visitors, and seeing the looms in operation is educational. When purchasing, reputable fixed-price shops or government emporiums (look for UP Handloom or similar state cooperative outlets) can offer more transparency on pricing and authenticity than purely commission-driven touts.
Other Crafts
- Wooden toys and lacquerware are a traditional Varanasi craft.
- Rudraksha beads and religious items are sold throughout the old city.
- Brassware and temple items are available in the lanes near major temples.
Practical Tips
- Be aware that many auto-rickshaw and boat operators receive commissions from shops they bring tourists to; prices in such shops are typically inflated.
- Bargaining is expected in most market contexts, but not at fixed-price government outlets.
- The lanes around Vishwanath Gali and Godaulia are dense with shops and can be overwhelming; early-morning visits are calmer.
Practical Information
Money
ATMs are available in the city, including near the cantonment area and major tourist zones, though machines in the narrow old-city lanes are sparse. Carry sufficient cash for the ghat area. Many smaller shops, street vendors, and boat operators operate cash-only.
Connectivity
SIM cards from major Indian operators (Jio, Airtel, Vi) offer good 4G coverage in Varanasi. Foreign visitors purchasing a local SIM will need a valid passport and a local address; some hotels assist with this. Wi-Fi is available at most guesthouses and hotels.
Electricity
India uses 230V / 50Hz with Type C, D, and M plugs. Power cuts occur in the old city; better hotels have backup generators.
Medical
Varanasi has government and private hospitals. For serious medical issues, Delhi or Lucknow offer more comprehensive facilities. Carry comprehensive travel insurance that includes medical evacuation.
Emergency Numbers
- Police: 100
- Ambulance: 108
- Fire: 101 (Verify these numbers remain current on arrival; local numbers may differ.)
Responsible Travel
- The Ganges faces severe pollution. Avoid single-use plastics and dispose of waste responsibly.
- If offered a boat or guide service, agree on the full price — including return journey — before departing.
- Many 'free' offers (temple blessings, dot on forehead) come with an expectation of payment; engage only if comfortable with that.
Safety
Varanasi is visited by large numbers of domestic and international tourists each year and is broadly safe. That said, practical awareness is useful.
- Scams: The most common involve commission-based touts directing visitors to overpriced shops, inflated 'guide fees' at cremation ghats, and boat operators changing agreed prices mid-ride. Agree on everything in advance and in specific terms.
- Traffic: The roads in broader Varanasi carry chaotic mixed traffic. Exercise caution when crossing streets and on auto-rickshaw rides.
- Crowds: During major festivals, ghat crowds become extremely dense. Keep valuables secure and be aware of your surroundings.
- Solo female travellers: As with many large pilgrimage cities in India, solo women travellers may experience unwanted attention in crowded areas. Dressing conservatively, walking with purpose, and staying in busier areas — particularly at night — are reasonable precautions. Many women travel here without incident.
- Ganges water: Do not drink river water; health risks are significant (see Before You Go).
- Travel insurance covering medical evacuation and trip disruption is strongly recommended.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Varanasi is a city of dense religious and cultural significance. Engaging with it respectfully requires some basic awareness.
- Cremation ghats: Death and cremation are public here by intent — they are not staged for tourism. Watching from a distance without cameras is acceptable. Do not enter the cremation ground without being invited, do not photograph, and do not bargain with people who approach offering 'guides' at these sites; many operate scams involving requests for 'wood donations.'
- Temple etiquette: Remove footwear before entering any temple or shrine. Dress modestly — shoulders and knees covered is a reasonable minimum. Some temples restrict entry to non-Hindus; respect these boundaries.
- Photography: Ask before photographing individuals, particularly sadhus (holy men), priests, and people engaged in ritual. A respectful attitude generally opens more doors than a camera thrust forward.
- Festivals: The city's ritual calendar is dense. Dev Deepawali, when the ghats are lit with hundreds of thousands of lamps, is particularly spectacular and draws enormous crowds. Maha Shivaratri in late winter is another significant event.
- Personal space and persistence: Touts, guides, and boat operators can be insistent. A calm, firm refusal is more effective than engaging in lengthy negotiation. Pre-arranging guides through your hotel or a registered agency reduces friction.
