Overview
Varanasi — also known as Kashi or Benares — sits on the western bank of the Ganges River in the state of Uttar Pradesh. It is among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a documented history stretching back more than 3,000 years and a mythology that runs considerably deeper. For observant Hindus, dying in Varanasi is considered a path to moksha (liberation from the cycle of rebirth), which gives the city a spiritual gravity unlike anywhere else.
The city is defined by its ghats: a long series of stone steps descending to the Ganges, each with its own character and ritual function. Bathing, cremation, prayer, yoga, and everyday life all unfold along the riverfront simultaneously. Narrow lanes in the old city — locally called galis — wind between temples, tea stalls, and silk shops in a maze that rewards slow exploration.
Beyond religion, Varanasi has long been a centre of classical music, Sanskrit scholarship, and the Banarasi silk trade. It is also home to Banaras Hindu University, one of the largest residential universities in Asia. Travelers who arrive expecting only temples and cremation fires often leave surprised by the intellectual and artistic texture of the place.
Before You Go
Visas
Most foreign nationals require a visa to enter India. Requirements vary significantly by nationality and purpose of travel. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section for general guidance, and verify current rules directly with the Indian government's official immigration authority or your nearest Indian embassy or consulate before booking.
Health
Speak with a travel medicine specialist well in advance of your trip. Common considerations for this region include typhoid, hepatitis A, and ensuring routine vaccinations are up to date. Water safety is a real concern: drink only bottled or purified water, and avoid ice from unknown sources. The Ganges river is heavily polluted; if you choose to bathe at the ghats as part of a religious experience, be aware of the health implications.
Best time to visit
October through February offers the most comfortable temperatures for walking the ghats and exploring the old city. Summers (April–June) are extremely hot and humid. The monsoon season (July–September) brings heavy rainfall and can affect travel logistics, though the river scenery has its own appeal. Festivals such as Diwali and Dev Deepawali (held on the Kartik Purnima full moon, usually November) draw large crowds and are extraordinary to witness if you plan ahead for accommodation.
What to pack
Modest, lightweight clothing is advisable year-round — covering shoulders and knees is expected at temples and appreciated elsewhere in the old city. Comfortable walking shoes with grip are essential for the uneven ghats and narrow lanes. A small flashlight can be useful in the pre-dawn dark when many visitors head to the river.
Getting There
By air
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) is located roughly 25 km northwest of the city centre. It handles domestic flights from major Indian cities including Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, and Kolkata, as well as a limited number of international routes. Verify current international connections with airlines or a booking platform, as these change.
By train
Varanasi Junction (BSB) is a major railway hub with extensive connections across India. Trains run frequently to and from Delhi, Kolkata, Agra, Lucknow, and many other cities. The Vande Bharat Express and several Rajdhani/Shatabdi services offer faster, more comfortable options on key routes. Booking through the Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC) platform in advance is strongly recommended, especially around festivals and school holidays.
By road
Varanasi is reachable by state and private buses from nearby cities, though road journeys can be long. The city is connected to the national highway network; some travelers combine a Varanasi visit with road trips through Uttar Pradesh or Bihar.
Getting from the airport / station
Prepaid taxi and auto-rickshaw counters operate at the airport and railway stations. App-based ride services are also available. Confirm the fare before departure if using an unmetered vehicle. The old city's narrow lanes are not accessible by car — expect to walk or take a cycle rickshaw for the final stretch.
Getting Around
Walking is the primary way to experience the ghats and the old city. The main ghat strip, stretching roughly from Assi Ghat in the south to Raj Ghat in the north, can be walked in its entirety in a few hours, though most visitors spread this over multiple mornings.
Cycle rickshaws are practical for navigating lanes too narrow for larger vehicles. Auto-rickshaws and app-based taxis (Ola, Uber) work for longer distances — for example, reaching Sarnath or the railway station. Agree on a fare before boarding any non-metered vehicle.
Boat rides on the Ganges are both a practical way to see the ghats in sequence and a meaningful experience in themselves. Rowing boats are widely available for hire at most ghats; prices vary and should be negotiated. Early morning is the most atmospheric time for a river journey. Motorised boats also operate and cover more ground quickly.
Things to See & Do
The Ghats
Varanasi has more than 80 named ghats. Dashashwamedh Ghat is the most central and is where the elaborate nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony takes place, conducted by priests using fire, incense, and chanting. Assi Ghat is popular with long-stay visitors and has a more relaxed atmosphere. Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are the city's two active cremation sites — these are working ritual spaces, not tourist attractions, and should be approached with quiet respect; photography is not appropriate here.
Ganga Aarti
The evening aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat draws large crowds daily. Arriving early to secure a position on the steps, or watching from a boat on the river, are both good options. The ceremony typically begins around sunset — check local listings for the precise time, which shifts with the season.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple
This famous Shaivite temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is one of the most significant pilgrimage sites in Hinduism. A major new corridor project has transformed access to the temple. Non-Hindus may be restricted from entering the innermost sanctum; verify the current access policy before visiting. Dress conservatively and be prepared for large crowds.
Sarnath
Approximately 10 km north of Varanasi, Sarnath is the site where the Buddha is said to have delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. The archaeological site includes the Dhamek Stupa, ruins of ancient monasteries, and the Sarnath Archaeological Museum, which houses the Lion Capital of Ashoka — the basis for India's national emblem. This is a half-day excursion easily combined with a Varanasi visit.
Old City Lanes
The galis (lanes) of the old city — particularly around Vishwanath and the ghats — are worth exploring on foot. You will pass small temples, chai stalls, spice shops, and workshops. Getting briefly lost is part of the experience; the city is not large and the river is always a useful landmark for reorientation.
Classical Music and Arts
Varanasi has a distinguished tradition in Hindustani classical music. Live performances do take place, often in small venues or cultural centres. Ask at your accommodation or check local listings for current events. Banaras Hindu University also hosts cultural programmes open to the public.
Food & Drink
Varanasi's food culture is largely vegetarian, reflecting the religious character of the city. Street food is central to daily life here and is genuinely excellent when sourced carefully.
What to try
- Kachori sabzi: Deep-fried lentil-stuffed bread served with a spiced potato and tomato curry — a popular breakfast across the city.
- Chaat: A broad category of tangy, sweet, and spicy snack plates. Tamatar chaat (tomato-based) is a Varanasi specialty.
- Lassi: Thick yogurt drinks, often served in earthen cups (kulhads) and sometimes topped with cream or saffron. Varanasi's lassis have a long-standing reputation.
- Baati chokha: A rustic dish of baked wheat dough balls served with spiced mashed vegetables, common in the broader Uttar Pradesh and Bihar region.
- Malaiyo: A seasonal winter sweet made from milk foam, saffron, and pistachios, available in the cooler months.
- Thandai: A spiced milk drink common during the Holi festival period.
Restaurants and dining
A range of restaurants operates in and around the main tourist areas, offering both local Banarasi cuisine and broader Indian and international options. Hygiene standards vary considerably; choosing busy establishments with visible food preparation is a practical guide. Many cafes along the ghats have rooftop seating with river views.
Alcohol
Varanasi is a city with significant religious sensibility around alcohol. Licensed restaurants and some hotels serve alcohol, but public drinking is not appropriate and availability is more limited than in major metropolitan centres.
Shopping
Varanasi is one of India's foremost centres for silk weaving, particularly Banarasi silk sarees, which are recognised for their intricate gold and silver brocade work. These sarees are used across India for weddings and formal occasions. The weaving tradition is concentrated in specific neighbourhoods such as Madanpura and Peeli Kothi, and some weavers' workshops welcome visitors.
When purchasing silk, be aware that quality and pricing vary enormously. Genuine Banarasi silk carries a Geographical Indication (GI) tag; sellers of authentic products should be able to provide documentation. Avoid purchasing from very high-pressure sales environments, and take time to compare across multiple shops.
Other items worth considering include brassware, wooden toys, stone carvings, and rudraksha beads (seeds used as prayer beads, widely sold near temples). The lanes around Vishwanath Temple and the main ghat areas have dense concentrations of shops. Bargaining is customary in most non-fixed-price contexts.
Practical Information
Money
ATMs are widely available in the tourist areas and city centre. Carrying some cash is advisable for smaller shops, street food, and boat hire. Larger restaurants and established shops increasingly accept cards and UPI-based digital payments.
Connectivity
Mobile data is widely available. Purchasing a local SIM card with a data plan at the airport or a registered telecom outlet is cost-effective for longer stays. Foreign nationals will need to present a passport and may need a local contact address.
Electricity
India uses 230V AC, 50Hz. Plug types C, D, and M are most common. A universal travel adapter is recommended.
Emergency contacts
For police, medical, and fire emergencies, India's national emergency number is 112. Verify locally whether this is reliably operational in your specific area. Your accommodation can assist in accessing medical care if needed.
Etiquette at religious sites
- Remove footwear before entering temples and many ghats.
- Dress modestly — cover shoulders and knees as a minimum.
- Ask before photographing people engaged in prayer or ritual.
- Follow any posted instructions from temple authorities about permitted areas.
Safety
Varanasi is visited by very large numbers of domestic and international travelers annually without serious incident. That said, the dense crowds, narrow lanes, and significant tourist economy create conditions where petty scams and opportunistic hustling are common. Travelers are frequently approached by touts offering boat rides, silk shops, or 'free' tours that lead to a sales pitch. A polite but firm response is effective.
Be cautious of strangers who seem unusually eager to guide you or take you to a specific shop or guesthouse — commission arrangements between guides and retailers are pervasive. If you want a guide, hire one through your accommodation or a reputable travel agency.
The cremation ghats should be approached with awareness: some individuals stationed there may approach tourists and later demand money for having 'guided' them. You are not obligated to pay anyone who approaches you uninvited.
Road traffic is chaotic throughout the city. Exercise caution when crossing streets. Solo female travelers have reported unwanted attention in some areas, particularly after dark in less-frequented lanes; traveling in groups or remaining in busier areas in the evenings is a practical precaution.
Water and food hygiene are ongoing considerations. Stick to bottled water throughout your stay.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Varanasi is one of Hinduism's seven sacred cities (Sapta Puri) and functions as an active place of pilgrimage year-round. Many visitors come specifically to perform last rites for family members, to bathe in the Ganges for ritual purification, or to seek blessings at the major temples. This ongoing religious life is not a performance for tourists — it is the primary function of the city.
Visitors from different cultural backgrounds should approach the city's rituals with genuine respect rather than curiosity framed as entertainment. Observing the Ganga Aarti or watching a sunrise boat ride is entirely appropriate; treating cremation grounds as photo opportunities or speaking disrespectfully in sacred spaces is not.
The city also has a significant Muslim population, particularly among the weaving communities, and mosques and Muslim neighbourhoods form part of the urban fabric. Interfaith coexistence has been a feature of Varanasi's history for centuries, though like many Indian cities it is not without communal tensions. Visitors need not be anxious about this but should be sensitive to local dynamics.
Varanasi's intellectual heritage is substantial. As a seat of Sanskrit learning for centuries, it attracted scholars, poets, and philosophers from across the subcontinent. The poet-saint Kabir, the musician Bismillah Khan, and the writer Premchand all have strong associations with the city. This depth is worth acknowledging when forming impressions of the place.
