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Overview
Varanasi — also known as Kashi or Benares — is widely regarded as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, with a history stretching back more than three thousand years. Situated on the western bank of the Ganges in the state of Uttar Pradesh, it is Hinduism's holiest city and one of the most spiritually significant places in the world for Buddhists and Jains as well.
The city's defining feature is its series of riverfront ghats — broad stone stairways descending to the Ganges — where pilgrims bathe, priests conduct ceremonies, and the famous Ganga Aarti fire ritual takes place each evening. Two of the ghats, Manikarnika and Harishchandra, serve as open-air cremation sites and are active around the clock.
Beyond its spiritual identity, Varanasi is a living city of narrow alleys (known locally as galis), chai stalls, classical music, and a centuries-old tradition of Banarasi silk weaving. The Banaras Hindu University (BHU), one of Asia's largest residential universities, also gives the city a strong academic character that coexists with its ancient religious life.
Visitors should arrive with a degree of openness and sensitivity. The city confronts mortality and devotion simultaneously, and that juxtaposition — which can feel confronting to first-time visitors — is central to what Varanasi actually is.
Before You Go
Visas
Most international visitors require a visa to enter India. Requirements, eligibility, and application procedures vary significantly by nationality. Check the TravelerPulse Visas section and the official Indian government immigration portal for current, accurate information before booking.
Health
- Water from taps and the Ganges is not safe to drink. Use sealed bottled water or a reliable filtration system throughout your stay.
- Consider consulting a travel medicine doctor before visiting; vaccines for typhoid, hepatitis A, and tetanus are commonly recommended for travel to this region — verify with your own physician.
- The Ganges itself carries significant pollution and health risks; avoid swimming or ingesting river water.
- Stomach upsets are common among first-time visitors. Carry rehydration sachets and any prescription medication you may need, as specific brands may not be available locally.
What to Pack
- Modest, loose-fitting clothing. Knees and shoulders should be covered when visiting temples and ghats.
- A scarf or shawl is useful for both sun protection and temple entry.
- Comfortable sandals you can slip off easily, as footwear must be removed at most religious sites.
- Insect repellent, particularly if visiting during or after the monsoon season (July–September).
Getting There
By Air
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) serves Varanasi with domestic flights from major Indian cities including Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and Bengaluru. Some international routes operate seasonally — verify current services with airlines directly. The airport is approximately 25 kilometres from the city centre; taxis and pre-paid cab counters are available at the terminal.
By Train
Varanasi Junction (BSB) is a major railway hub with connections to most large Indian cities. Varanasi Cantt station also handles some services. Train travel is a practical and reasonably priced way to reach the city from Delhi (roughly 12–14 hours by overnight express) or Kolkata. Book tickets through the official IRCTC platform or verified booking agents well in advance, especially during festival periods.
By Road
State and private buses connect Varanasi to Allahabad (Prayagraj), Lucknow, and other Uttar Pradesh cities. Long-distance road travel is time-consuming but widely used. Shared taxis also operate on some regional routes. Verify departure points and journey times locally.
Getting Around
Within the City
Varanasi's old city — the area most visitors want to explore — is a dense maze of lanes too narrow for vehicles. Walking is the primary and often the only way to navigate from ghat to ghat and through the temple districts. Expect to walk significant distances on uneven stone.
- Auto-rickshaws and e-rickshaws are the most practical motorised option for moving between the old city fringes, the railway station, and broader neighbourhoods. Negotiate fares before boarding or confirm use of a meter.
- Cycle-rickshaws are slower but useful for short distances and more comfortable when heavily loaded with luggage.
- Boats are an essential part of moving along the ghats and the most practical way to see the riverside at dawn. Boatmen congregate at most major ghats; agree on a price and duration before departing.
- App-based taxis (Ola, Uber) operate in Varanasi and can be useful for longer trips to the airport or BHU. Coverage in the narrow old city lanes is limited.
Ghat Navigation
The ghats run for roughly 6.5 kilometres along the river. It is easy to get disoriented in the back lanes. Download an offline map before arrival, and use prominent landmarks — Dasaswamedh Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, and Assi Ghat — as reference points.
Things to See & Do
The Ghats
There are more than 80 ghats in Varanasi; visiting a selection of them is the central experience of any trip. Dasaswamedh Ghat is the busiest and the site of the nightly Ganga Aarti — a large, choreographed fire offering to the river performed by priests each evening. Arrive early for a good viewpoint, either from the steps or from a boat. Assi Ghat, at the southern end of the ghat sequence, tends to be calmer and is a meeting point for students, sadhus, and morning yoga practitioners.
Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats
These are the city's two active cremation ghats. Hindus believe dying in Varanasi grants moksha — liberation from the cycle of rebirth — so bodies are brought here from across India. Visitors may observe from a respectful distance. Photography is strictly inappropriate and widely considered offensive; avoid pointing cameras toward the pyres or mourners under any circumstances. Touts near these ghats sometimes solicit money under various pretexts; you are under no obligation to pay.
Temples
- Kashi Vishwanath Temple (the Golden Temple) is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas — among the most sacred Shiva shrines in Hinduism. Access for non-Hindus has historically been restricted or prohibited; verify the current policy before visiting. A new corridor complex has expanded the surrounding area.
- Durga Temple (known locally as the Monkey Temple) and Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple are significant pilgrimage sites with a more open-access atmosphere. Be alert to resident monkeys near your belongings.
- Tulsi Manas Temple houses the text of the Ramcharitmanas inscribed on its walls and is accessible to visitors of all backgrounds.
Sarnath
Located approximately 10 kilometres from central Varanasi, Sarnath is where the Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. The archaeological site includes the Dhamekh Stupa, ruins of ancient monasteries, and the excellent Sarnath Museum, which houses the original Ashoka Lion Capital — India's national emblem. A half-day trip is sufficient and strongly recommended. Verify museum opening hours and admission fees on arrival.
Morning Boat Ride
Taking a boat on the Ganges at dawn — when the mist rises and pilgrims bathe in the early light — is widely considered the most memorable experience the city offers. Arrange a boat the evening before through your hotel or directly with a boatman at any major ghat. Agree on the duration and price clearly before you set off.
Music and Classical Arts
Varanasi is a seat of Hindustani classical music and has been home to legendary musicians across generations. Evening concerts and informal performances occur in various venues; your hotel or a local cultural organisation can point you toward current programmes.
Food & Drink
What to Eat
Varanasi has a strong vegetarian food culture rooted in its religious character. The city's street food scene is genuinely excellent and worth exploring, though hygiene standards vary considerably between vendors — choose stalls with high turnover and freshly cooked items.
- Banarasi paan — betel leaf prepared with a range of fillings — is a local institution and widely available along the ghats and bazaars. Opt for the sweet (meetha) variety if you want a milder experience.
- Kachori sabzi — deep-fried lentil bread served with potato curry — is a classic breakfast found at many small eateries.
- Chaat (savoury snacks such as tamatar chaat and aloo tikki) is popular throughout the day at ghat-side stalls.
- Lassi (a thick, sweet yoghurt drink) is something of a Varanasi signature. The city has several long-established lassi shops, particularly in the Godaulia and Vishwanath Gali areas.
- Banarasi sweets, including malaiyo (a seasonal airy sweet made from milk foam, available mainly in winter) and rabri, are worth trying.
Dining Practicalities
- Alcohol is available at licensed restaurants and some hotels but is not ubiquitous; the city's religious character means many establishments are dry.
- Restaurants catering to international visitors are clustered around Assi Ghat and Godaulia. Quality and hygiene vary widely — read recent traveller reviews and use your own judgment.
- Drink only sealed bottled water or verified filtered water, including when ordering at restaurants.
Shopping
Banarasi Silk
Varanasi is renowned across India for its handwoven Banarasi silk sarees, characterised by intricate gold and silver zari (metallic thread) work. This is a genuine craft tradition with centuries of history. However, the market also carries significant amounts of machine-made or synthetic imitations presented as authentic handloom products. If purchasing a saree as a significant investment, visit a government-recognised emporium or a weaver cooperative where the provenance is clearer, and take time to understand the difference between genuine and imitation products before you buy.
Other Crafts and Goods
- Wooden toys and lacquerware are a traditional local craft.
- Brass and bronze items, including small statues and lamps used in puja (worship), are widely available in the lanes around the temples.
- Books on Hindu philosophy and yoga are sold at numerous small shops, particularly near Assi Ghat.
- The Vishwanath Gali and Chowk areas are the oldest shopping lanes. Bargaining is standard at non-fixed-price shops.
Be cautious of touts who approach you on the ghats or street and offer to take you to a relative's silk shop; this is an extremely common and well-documented practice, and the products may be overpriced.
Practical Information
Money
ATMs are available throughout the city but can run out of cash during festival periods. Carry sufficient rupees in smaller denominations for ghat boatmen, street food, and rickshaws. UPI (smartphone-based payments) is increasingly accepted at mid-range shops and restaurants.
Connectivity
SIM cards from major Indian operators (Jio, Airtel, Vi) are available with good 4G coverage in most of the city. Foreign nationals will need their passport and a local address to register a SIM; tourist SIM packages are available at the airport and in the city. Wi-Fi is offered at most mid-range and upper-range hotels.
Electricity
India uses 230V/50Hz electricity. Plugs are predominantly Type C, D, and M. Power cuts (load shedding) can occur, especially in older parts of the city. A portable battery pack is useful.
Emergency Contacts
Verify current emergency numbers on arrival. General emergency numbers in India are 112 (all emergencies), 100 (police), 101 (fire), and 108 (ambulance), though coverage and response times vary. Your hotel front desk is a practical first point of contact for non-life-threatening issues.
Safety
General Safety
Varanasi is visited by millions of pilgrims and tourists each year without serious incident. Standard urban precautions apply: be aware of your surroundings, keep valuables secured, and avoid displaying expensive jewellery or electronics unnecessarily.
Common Scams
The city has a well-documented ecosystem of tourist-oriented scams. The most common involve touts offering 'free' tours, boat rides, or temple visits that lead to pressure sales at silk or craft shops. Others involve individuals claiming the temple you intended to visit is closed, and offering to take you to an alternative. Be sceptical of unsolicited offers of guidance, and arrange tours through your hotel or a verified operator where possible.
River and Ghat Safety
- Ghat steps can be extremely slippery, particularly near the waterline. Take care on wet stone, especially at night.
- The Ganges current is stronger than it appears, particularly during and after the monsoon. Avoid wading or swimming.
- Boat rides at night carry additional risk if conditions are poor; use licensed boatmen and avoid overloaded vessels.
Solo Travellers and Women Travellers
Women travelling alone should take standard precautions relevant to travel in urban India: avoid poorly lit lanes at night, use verified transport rather than accepting unsolicited rides, and trust your instincts. The narrow galis can feel claustrophobic and disorienting after dark; navigate in groups where possible.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Religious Sensitivity
Varanasi is an actively functioning centre of religious life, not a heritage theme park. Pilgrims, priests, mourners, and devotees are going about practices that are deeply personal. Move quietly, observe without intruding, and ask before photographing anyone.
- Remove footwear before entering temples and many ghats, as indicated by signs.
- Dress modestly — this applies to all genders. Exposed legs and bare shoulders are considered disrespectful in religious areas.
- The cremation ghats should be approached with particular restraint and humility. Do not treat them as a photo opportunity.
- During major festivals — including Dev Deepawali (Kartik Purnima, typically in November) and Maha Shivaratri — the city fills dramatically with pilgrims. These are remarkable events to witness but require patience with large crowds and limited accommodation.
Interactions with Sadhus and Priests
Many sadhus (Hindu holy men) and priests at popular sites will request money or offer blessings in exchange for a donation. This is a normal part of the city's social fabric, but you are not obligated to participate. If you accept a tilak (forehead marking) or a garland, a donation is generally expected — clarify expectations beforehand if possible.
