Varanasi Travel Guide

Varanasi — also known as Kashi or Benares — sits on the western bank of the Ganges River in Uttar Pradesh and is considered the spiritual capital of India by many Hindus. The city is one of the oldest continuously inhabited urban settlements on earth, with recorded history stretching back at least 3,000 years, and references in ancient Sanskrit texts going back further still.

At the heart of Varanasi are its ghats: a long succession of stone steps descending to the river, used for bathing, prayer, cremation, and daily life. The city draws Hindu pilgrims, Jain visitors, Buddhist travelers (Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon, is just 10 km away), and curious travelers from around the world.

Beyond its religious significance, Varanasi has deep roots in Indian classical music, Sanskrit scholarship, weaving, and philosophy. The Banaras Hindu University (BHU), founded in 1916, is one of Asia's largest residential universities and houses significant cultural collections.

Varanasi is not a city of polished surfaces. It is dense, loud, and viscerally alive. Narrow lanes (called galis) wind through the old city, and the riverfront runs on its own ancient rhythm. Travelers who arrive with open expectations and practical patience typically find it among the most memorable stops in India.

Visas

Most foreign nationals require a visa to enter India. Varanasi has no special entry requirements beyond standard Indian immigration rules. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section and consult the official Indian government immigration portal for current, country-specific rules before booking.

Health

Consult a travel medicine clinic at least four to six weeks before your trip. Vaccinations commonly discussed for India include hepatitis A, typhoid, and tetanus; your doctor may recommend others depending on your itinerary and health history. Mosquito-borne illnesses (including dengue and malaria) are present in Uttar Pradesh; use repellent and cover exposed skin at dawn and dusk. Tap water in Varanasi is not safe to drink — use sealed bottled water or a certified filter throughout your stay.

Practical prep

• Download offline maps (Google Maps or Maps.me) before arriving, as the old city lanes are notoriously hard to navigate.
• Carry cash; many small ghat-side vendors, boat operators, and dhabas (small eateries) do not accept cards.
• Modest, loose-fitting clothing is appropriate and practical, especially near temples and the ghats.
• Smog and dust can be significant in winter months; travelers with respiratory sensitivities should plan accordingly.

By Air

Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) is located roughly 25 km from the city center and handles domestic flights from major Indian cities, as well as some international routes. Verify current route availability with your airline or a booking platform, as connections change seasonally.

By Train

Varanasi Junction (BSB) is a major railway hub on India's vast rail network, with direct trains from Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai, and many other cities. Trains are generally the most practical intercity option. Book tickets through the official IRCTC portal or a licensed agent well in advance, especially around major festivals (Diwali, Holi, Mahashivratri).

By Road

Varanasi is accessible by road from surrounding cities including Allahabad (Prayagraj), Lucknow, and Gorakhpur. Long-distance buses and private taxis are available. Journey times vary considerably with traffic and road conditions; verify current schedules locally.

Within the Old City

The historic core — particularly the ghat area — is largely inaccessible to motor vehicles. Walking through the galis is the primary way to move between ghats and temples. Lanes are narrow, unmarked, and easy to get lost in; this is part of the experience for many visitors, though it requires patience and comfortable footwear.

Cycle Rickshaws and E-Rickshaws

These are a practical way to travel between the old city and other neighborhoods. Agree on a fare before you set off; there are generally no meters. E-rickshaws have become increasingly common and are quieter and less physically demanding for the driver.

Auto-Rickshaws and Taxis

Autos are available for longer distances across the city. App-based ride services (such as Ola) operate in Varanasi and can simplify fare negotiation, though coverage in the narrowest lanes is limited.

Boats

Rowboats and motorboats can be hired from the ghats to travel along the river. Early morning boat rides at sunrise are a well-established way to see the ghats from the water. Negotiate prices beforehand, or ask your accommodation for a reference rate to avoid overpaying.

The Ghats

Varanasi has more than 80 ghats along an approximately 6.5 km stretch of riverfront. Each has its own character and purpose. Dashashwamedh Ghat is the main ghat and the setting for the nightly Ganga Aarti — a large, choreographed fire ceremony performed by priests at dusk. Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat are the two primary cremation ghats, active around the clock. These are functioning sacred sites, not tourist attractions; observe respectfully from a distance, follow local guidance, and do not photograph without clear permission.

Ganga Aarti

The evening ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat takes place daily at dusk (exact time shifts with sunset). It can be watched from the ghat steps or from a boat on the river. It draws large crowds, particularly during festival seasons.

Sarnath

About 10 km north of Varanasi, Sarnath is where the Buddha delivered his first discourse after attaining enlightenment. The site includes the Dhamek Stupa (5th–6th century CE), ruins of ancient monasteries, and the Sarnath Archaeological Museum, which houses the famous Lion Capital — the national emblem of India. Sarnath is easily reached by auto-rickshaw or taxi and makes a straightforward half-day trip.

Temples

• Kashi Vishwanath Temple — one of Hinduism's twelve Jyotirlinga shrines, dedicated to Shiva. The current main structure was rebuilt in the 18th century. Entry rules for non-Hindus vary and should be verified on arrival.
• Durga Temple (Durga Kund) — an 18th-century temple noted for its nagara architecture and the large tank adjacent to it.
• Tulsi Manas Temple — a 20th-century temple built near the site traditionally associated with the poet-saint Tulsidas, who composed the Ramcharitmanas here.

Banaras Hindu University (BHU)

The campus is large and relatively calm compared to the old city. The Bharat Kala Bhavan museum on campus holds significant collections of Indian miniature paintings, sculptures, and textiles. Verify opening hours locally before visiting.

Classical Music

Varanasi has a long association with Hindustani classical music and is home to the Benares gharana (school). Live performances do occur, particularly during cultural festivals; ask at your accommodation or check local listings for current events.

Varanasi has a strong street food culture, and the old city lanes are lined with small food stalls and tea shops (chai wallahs). The local cuisine leans vegetarian, reflecting the city's religious character, though non-vegetarian options are available in some areas.

Things to Try

• Kachori sabzi — deep-fried bread served with a spiced potato-and-tomato gravy, a common breakfast across the city.
• Baati chokha — baked wheat balls served with mashed roasted vegetables, a regional Bihari/UP specialty found here.
• Thandai — a chilled milk drink flavored with nuts, saffron, and spices. During Holi, a version containing bhang (cannabis paste) is traditional; vendors should make clear which version they are offering.
• Malaiyo / Makhan Malai — a wintertime specialty: a light, frothy sweet made from milk, flavored with saffron and cardamom. Available roughly October to February from early morning street vendors.
• Lassi — thick yogurt-based drink, often served in clay cups at famous shops in the old city.
• Chaat — various savory snacks including aloo tikki, golgappa, and tamatar chaat have local variations worth trying.

For sit-down meals, restaurants around the ghats cater to a range of budgets. Be cautious with raw salads, unpeeled fruit, and drinks with ice made from tap water, especially if your stomach is unaccustomed to local bacteria.

Varanasi is best known for Banarasi silk — hand-woven silk fabric with intricate brocade patterns, traditionally used for saris and wedding attire. It is a legitimate craft with a long weaving tradition in the city's Madanpura neighborhood and surrounding weaving communities. Genuine Banarasi silk is not cheap; deeply discounted pieces sold aggressively near ghats warrant scrutiny.

Other items commonly available include:

• Rudraksha beads and religious items
• Brass and bronze figurines
• Wooden and lacquerware toys — a traditional craft of the region
• Sitarist and tabla accessories, given the city's music heritage

The lanes around Vishwanath Temple, Dashashwamedh Road, and the Chowk area are the main shopping corridors. Fixed-price government emporiums exist as a reference point if you want to gauge fair market value before bargaining at private shops. Be prepared: persistent shop touts operate near tourist areas, and high-pressure selling is common.

Money

ATMs are available throughout the city, including near the main ghats. Carrying sufficient cash is advisable, as connectivity can be inconsistent and small vendors rarely accept digital payments. UPI-based payments (via apps such as Google Pay or PhonePe) are increasingly accepted even at street stalls.

Connectivity

Local SIM cards (requiring passport and photo ID) are available from telecom retailers. Major operators include Jio, Airtel, and Vi. Network coverage in the deep lanes of the old city can be patchy.

Electricity

India uses 230V/50Hz power. Plug types vary (Types C, D, and M are most common). A universal travel adapter is recommended.

Medical Facilities

Several hospitals and clinics operate in Varanasi; your hotel or guesthouse can direct you to the nearest reputable facility. For any serious emergency, contact your travel insurance provider immediately.

Emergency Contacts

Verify current local emergency numbers upon arrival or through your country's embassy. India's national emergency number is 112.

Varanasi is a high-volume tourist destination and most visits proceed without incident. That said, a few recurring concerns are worth noting.

Scams targeting tourists are documented and common. These include touts who approach travelers near the ghats claiming a festival or temple is closed and offering to take them elsewhere, often to a shop or a silk factory with inflated prices. If a stranger volunteers unsolicited guidance, treat it with skepticism.

Boat operators sometimes quote low fares and demand significantly more at the end. Settle price, duration, and route clearly before boarding.

Solo female travelers should be aware that harassment — verbal and occasional physical — is reported in crowded areas. Traveling with others, using reputable auto-rickshaw apps, and avoiding isolated lanes at night are practical precautions.

Traffic in Varanasi's busier roads is chaotic; pedestrians should not assume right of way. The old city's pedestrian lanes, while slower, are much safer for foot travel.

Keep copies of important documents (passport, visa, insurance) stored separately from originals. Register with your country's embassy or consular notification service before traveling if your country offers this.

Varanasi operates on a rhythm shaped by religious observance. Morning bathing at the ghats begins before dawn. Temples have prayer schedules that structure the day. Death and cremation are public and unsentimental here — Hindus consider dying in Kashi spiritually auspicious, and the burning ghats are continuously active. Travelers who find this confronting may want to read about this aspect of the city before arriving.

Etiquette at Sacred Sites

• Remove footwear before entering temples and at certain ghats. Designated shoe-keeping spots (often with a small fee) exist near major sites.
• Dress modestly — cover shoulders and knees. Scarves are useful to have on hand.
• Do not photograph cremations or grieving families under any circumstances.
• Sadhus (wandering holy men) may invite you to photograph them in exchange for a donation; this is a transaction, not a candid moment.

Festivals

Varanasi is particularly vibrant during Dev Deepawali (full moon of November, when thousands of lamps are set on the ghats), Mahashivratri (a major pilgrimage event in February/March), and Holi (celebrated with considerable energy in the city). These festivals draw very large crowds; accommodation should be booked well in advance.