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Overview
Varanasi — also known as Kashi or Benares — sits on the western bank of the Ganges in the eastern part of Uttar Pradesh. It is widely regarded as one of the holiest cities in Hinduism, and its roots as a settlement stretch back more than three thousand years, making it among the oldest continuously inhabited urban centres on earth.
The city's spiritual life is inseparable from the river. Roughly 88 ghats (stepped embankments) line a crescent-shaped stretch of the Ganges, each with its own character and ritual purpose. Pilgrims arrive year-round to bathe, pray, and perform last rites, while the twin cremation ghats of Manikarnika and Harishchandra burn continuously, day and night.
Beyond its religious significance, Varanasi is a working city of roughly 1.5 million people with a vibrant economy built on silk weaving, tourism, education, and trade. Banaras Hindu University, founded in 1916, is one of the largest residential universities in Asia and gives the city a notable intellectual dimension. The old city's narrow lanes, temples, and tea stalls create an environment that rewards slow, patient exploration.
Before You Go
Visas
Most foreign nationals require a visa to enter India. Rules, eligibility, and e-visa categories change periodically. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section for current guidance and confirm requirements with India's official immigration authority or your nearest Indian diplomatic mission before booking.
Health
Consult a travel medicine specialist or your doctor well in advance of your trip. Vaccinations for typhoid, hepatitis A, and tetanus are commonly discussed for visitors to the Gangetic plain. Tap water is not safe to drink; use sealed bottled water or a reliable filter. The Ganges itself carries significant bacterial and chemical contamination — most health authorities advise against bathing in it, though millions of pilgrims do so.
What to pack
- Lightweight, modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees; this is expected at temples and ghats
- A sturdy pair of shoes you can slip on and off easily, as footwear is removed at most religious sites
- A good dust mask or N95 respirator if you are sensitive to air quality — Varanasi experiences elevated particulate pollution, especially in winter
- Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat for the warmer months
- Small denomination rupee notes, as many local vendors and boat operators prefer cash
Money
ATMs are available in the city, though outages do occur. Notify your bank before travel. UPI-based digital payments (Google Pay, PhonePe, Paytm) are widely accepted by local vendors, so having an India-compatible payment method or sufficient cash on hand is advisable.
Getting There
By Air
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) is located approximately 25 km north of the city centre in Babatpur. It handles direct flights from several major Indian cities including Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, and Kolkata. A limited number of international flights operate, primarily seasonal or charter services; most international travellers connect through Delhi or Mumbai. Verify current routes with your airline or a booking platform, as schedules change seasonally.
By Train
Varanasi Junction (BSB) and Manduadih (now officially renamed Banaras station, MUV) are the two main railway stations. The city is well connected to the Indian Railways network, with trains to Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai, Prayagraj, and many other cities. The Vande Bharat Express and several other express services link Varanasi to Delhi in roughly eight hours, though travel times vary significantly by service. Booking in advance through the IRCTC platform is strongly recommended, especially during festival periods.
By Road
National highways connect Varanasi to Prayagraj (roughly 120 km), Lucknow (roughly 300 km), and other regional centres. State-run and private bus services operate on these routes. Road travel into the old city itself can be slow due to dense traffic.
Getting Around
The old city and ghat area are largely navigable only on foot — the lanes (called galis) are too narrow for vehicles. Walking is the primary way to move between ghats and explore the old quarter, but the layout is genuinely labyrinthine; getting temporarily lost is common and part of the experience.
Cycle rickshaws and e-rickshaws operate on many streets and are a practical option for covering medium distances within the city. Agree on a fare before you board.
Auto-rickshaws are available for longer distances, such as travelling between the old city and the railway stations or airport-adjacent areas. Again, negotiate or insist on the meter before departing.
Boat rides on the Ganges are both a mode of getting between ghats and a core travel experience. Shared and private boats operate from most major ghats. Prices are negotiable; verify current rates locally.
App-based taxis (Ola and Uber both operate in Varanasi) are useful for airport runs and longer cross-city journeys. Coverage and availability in the dense old city lanes is limited.
Things to See & Do
The Ghats
Walking the full crescent of ghats from Assi Ghat in the south to Raj Ghat in the north is one of the defining experiences of Varanasi. Each ghat has a distinct feel: Assi Ghat draws students and morning yoga practitioners; Dashashwamedh Ghat is the principal venue for the nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony; Manikarnika Ghat is the main cremation site. Observe cremation rituals with respectful silence and do not photograph without clear permission.
Ganga Aarti
Every evening at dusk, priests perform an elaborate lamp-lighting ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat. It draws large crowds of pilgrims and visitors alike. Arriving early — either on foot or by boat — gives you a better vantage point. The ceremony's duration and exact timing shift seasonally.
Temples
- Kashi Vishwanath Temple: Dedicated to Shiva and among the most important temples in Hinduism. Entry rules for non-Hindus vary and are subject to change; verify the current policy before visiting.
- Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple: A less formal, deeply local temple beloved in the city.
- Durga Temple (Durga Kund): Notable 18th-century temple near Banaras Hindu University.
Sarnath
Located roughly 10 km north of central Varanasi, Sarnath is the site where the Buddha is said to have delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. Key sites include the Dhamek Stupa, the Mulagandha Kuti Vihara, and the Sarnath Archaeological Museum, which houses the famous Lion Capital of Ashoka (the original, from which India's national emblem is derived). Admission fees and hours should be verified locally or through the Archaeological Survey of India.
Banaras Hindu University (BHU)
The campus is large enough to warrant a half-day visit. It includes the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum, which holds a significant collection of miniature paintings, sculptures, and textiles. Verify current opening hours before visiting.
Sunrise Boat Ride
A dawn boat ride on the Ganges — when the light is soft and morning rituals are underway on the ghats — is a widely cited highlight by visitors. Arrange a boat the evening before through your accommodation or directly with a ghat boatman.
Food & Drink
Varanasi's food culture is rooted in the vegetarian traditions of a major Hindu pilgrimage city. Meat is available but far less prevalent than in many Indian cities.
What to eat
- Kachori sabzi: Deep-fried lentil-stuffed bread served with a spiced potato or vegetable curry; a quintessential Varanasi breakfast
- Baati chokha: A Bhojpuri-region specialty of baked wheat balls served with mashed roasted vegetables and ghee
- Tamatar chaat: A tangy, spiced tomato-based street snack distinctive to the city
- Malaiyo (seasonal): A frothy, saffron-tinted milk dessert available in winter months
- Thandai: A cold milk drink spiced with nuts and seeds; widely available, especially during Holi season
- Banarasi paan: Betel leaf preparation — a post-meal ritual in the city, with dozens of variations
Where to eat
Restaurants cluster around the main ghats, Godowlia Chowk, and Assi Ghat. The Assi Ghat area has a concentration of cafes catering to longer-term visitors and students. Street stalls around Vishwanath Gali and the old market lanes offer authentic local food at low prices. As with any street food, assess vendor hygiene personally and drink only sealed or treated water.
Alcohol
Varanasi sits in Uttar Pradesh, which permits alcohol but enforces restrictions on where it can be sold and consumed. Liquor shops exist but alcohol is not served at most local restaurants in the old city. Some hotels licensed for it can serve guests. The city's sacred character means alcohol consumption in public or near temple areas is strongly frowned upon.
Shopping
Varanasi is internationally recognised for its handwoven silk textiles, known as Banarasi silk. Sarees, stoles, and fabric lengths produced here use traditional brocade techniques and are considered among the finest in India. The weaving industry is centred in areas like Madanpura, Peeli Kothi, and the villages of Lallapura — visiting a working loom workshop gives valuable context before purchasing.
When buying Banarasi silk, be aware that the market includes machine-made imitations and lower-quality blends sold alongside genuine handwoven pieces. Prices vary enormously based on thread count, zari content (real vs artificial gold thread), and intricacy of design. Government-run emporia (such as those run by UPICA or similar bodies) may offer a quality baseline, though prices are fixed. Verify which emporia are currently operating.
Other notable purchases include brass and bronze ritual items, wooden toys crafted in the local tradition, rudraksha beads, and classical music instruments (sitar, tabla) from shops catering to the city's strong musical heritage. Trinkets sold immediately around major ghats are often mass-produced; better-quality craft items are found slightly away from the most tourist-heavy areas.
Bargaining is standard in most market settings but is not appropriate in fixed-price shops. Be cautious of strangers who approach you offering to take you to a 'special' shop — commission-driven touts operate extensively in this city.
Practical Information
Emergency contacts
India's national emergency numbers include 112 (all emergencies), 100 (police), 101 (fire), and 108 (ambulance). Confirm which services are active and responsive in Varanasi locally, as coverage and response times vary. Your country's embassy or consulate in India can provide consular assistance if needed — keep their contact details on hand.
Connectivity
SIM cards from major Indian carriers (Airtel, Jio, Vi) can be purchased at the airport or registered mobile shops. Foreign nationals require their passport and visa to register a SIM. Wi-Fi is available at most hotels and many cafes, though speeds vary.
Electricity
India uses 230V AC at 50 Hz. Standard plug types are the round two-pin (Type C) and the three round-pin (Type D/M). Power cuts occur, particularly in summer. Better hotels have backup generators.
Medical
Several hospitals operate in Varanasi, including facilities associated with Banaras Hindu University (Sir Sundar Lal Hospital). For serious medical needs, Delhi or Lucknow offer more specialised facilities. Carry a basic first-aid kit and any prescription medications in sufficient supply for your stay, with copies of prescriptions.
Photography
Photography is restricted or prohibited inside most temples and at Manikarnika cremation ghat. Signs and requests from locals or priests should be followed. Photographing people — especially pilgrims performing rituals — warrants explicit permission.
Safety
Varanasi is a high-volume pilgrimage and tourist city and is generally safe for travellers who exercise standard urban precautions. Petty theft (pickpocketing, bag snatching) occurs, particularly in crowded ghat areas and markets. Keep valuables secured and avoid displaying expensive electronics or jewellery conspicuously.
Tout culture is active and persistent. Common approaches include offers of 'free' temple guidance, invitations to silk or gem shops, and boat rides priced far above local norms. A polite, firm refusal is usually sufficient. Confirm prices for any service before committing.
Women travelling solo have reported harassment in some parts of the old city, particularly at night. Travelling with a companion after dark, staying in well-reviewed accommodations in the Assi Ghat or main ghat area, and dressing modestly are practical mitigations. The situation varies and many solo women travellers visit without incident.
Road traffic is chaotic by most international standards. Pedestrians do not have automatic right of way. Cross streets carefully and follow local cues.
Air quality in Varanasi — particularly from October to February — can reach unhealthy levels by international standards. Travellers with respiratory conditions should monitor the AQI and consider wearing a quality mask on high-pollution days.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Varanasi is a living city of continuous ritual. Death and rebirth are not taboo subjects here but are central to daily life — cremations on the main ghats are public, unhurried, and treated with matter-of-fact solemnity by residents. Visitors are generally welcome to observe from a respectful distance, but this is not a spectacle; maintain quiet and refrain from photographing unless clearly permitted.
Remove footwear before entering any temple or many private homes. Dress conservatively — shoulders and knees covered — in temple precincts and ghat areas. Leather items (belts, bags, shoes) may be prohibited inside certain temples, particularly those dedicated to Shiva.
The city has a centuries-old tradition in classical Hindustani music. Varanasi has produced many of India's most celebrated musicians, and informal performances or formal concerts occur regularly in the city. Inquire locally about events during your stay.
Diwali, Mahashivaratri, Dev Deepawali (a celebration of lamps on the ghats held on the full moon of Kartik month), and Holi are among the major festivals observed with particular intensity in Varanasi. These periods bring large crowds, higher accommodation demand, and heightened energy. Book accommodation well in advance if your visit overlaps with a major festival.
