Overview
Kermanshah (also written Kermānshāh) is a city of roughly one million people in western Iran, set in a fertile valley at approximately 1,320 metres above sea level in the Zagros Mountains. It serves as the capital of Kermanshah Province and functions as the cultural and commercial hub of Iran's Kurdish-speaking west.
The city sits on trade and pilgrimage routes that have been active for millennia, and its surroundings contain some of the most significant open-air monuments in the ancient world. The UNESCO-inscribed Bisotun site — featuring Darius the Great's trilingual inscription and prehistoric rock art — lies about 30 km east of the city centre. Taq-e Bostan, a complex of Sasanian-era rock reliefs on the city's northeast edge, is arguably the most visited monument within the city itself.
For travellers, Kermanshah offers an approachable introduction to Kurdish Iranian life: its bazaar, local cuisine, music, and craft traditions differ noticeably from cities further east. The surrounding landscape — river valleys, oak forests, and high passes — also draws hikers and nature travellers.
Before You Go
Visas
Iran maintains a visa regime that applies to almost all foreign nationals; requirements, exemptions, and processing procedures change periodically. Do not rely on any single guide for current rules. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section and consult the official website of Iran's Ministry of Foreign Affairs or your nearest Iranian consulate well before travel.
Currency and Banking
International bank cards (Visa, Mastercard) do not function in Iran due to sanctions. Travellers must arrive with sufficient cash — typically euros or US dollars — and exchange at licensed exchange offices (sarrafi). Keep smaller denominations for day-to-day spending. Confirm current exchange rates and any legal restrictions locally or through recent traveller reports before departure.
Connectivity
Many international internet services are restricted inside Iran. A VPN may help, but check your home country's rules on VPN use before travel. Local SIM cards with data plans are available at the airport and in the city; verify current options on arrival.
Health and Medications
Consult a travel-medicine clinic before visiting. Carry adequate supplies of any prescription medication, as specific brands may not be available locally. Tap water quality varies; bottled or filtered water is widely used by locals.
Getting There
By Air
Shahid Ashrafi Esfahani Airport (KSH) serves Kermanshah with domestic flights connecting to Tehran (Mehrabad and Imam Khomeini), Mashhad, Isfahan, and other Iranian cities. International connections are limited; most travellers route through Tehran. Verify current schedules with Iran Air or other domestic carriers, as flight frequency changes seasonally.
By Road
Kermanshah sits on well-maintained roads linking it to Tehran (approximately 525 km east), Hamadan (about 190 km northeast), and the Iraqi border crossing at Khosravi/Parvizkhan (roughly 130 km west). Long-distance buses operated by multiple companies connect the city to major Iranian destinations; the main terminal handles both VIP and standard services. Verify schedules and book through the terminal or local agencies.
By Rail
A railway line connects Kermanshah to Tehran via Hamadan. Journey times are longer than by road or air; confirm current service status and schedules locally, as rail expansion in western Iran has been ongoing.
Getting Around
Kermanshah's main monuments — Taq-e Bostan, the bazaar district, and the city centre — are spread across a medium-sized urban area. The city has a municipal bus network and shared taxis (savari) running along fixed routes, which are the most common and affordable local transport options.
App-based ride-hailing services (notably Snapp and Tap30) operate in Kermanshah and are practical for point-to-point journeys within the city, especially if you do not speak Persian. Standard taxis are also plentiful; agree on a fare before departure or ensure the meter is used.
For day trips to Bisotun or the Quri Qala cave system, hiring a private driver for the day through your accommodation is the most practical option for independent travellers. Rental cars are technically available but navigating without Persian-language proficiency can be challenging, and international driving licences have limited recognition — verify locally before renting.
Things to See & Do
Taq-e Bostan
Located at the foot of a limestone cliff on the northeastern edge of the city, Taq-e Bostan features two large arched grottos (iwans) and several open-air bas-reliefs dating to the Sasanian period (3rd–7th centuries CE). The largest iwan contains detailed hunting and royal investiture scenes. The site is set beside a reflecting pool in a landscaped park that is popular with local families, particularly in the evening. Admission fees and opening hours — verify at the site or with your accommodation before visiting.
Bisotun (Behistun) UNESCO Site
Approximately 30 km east of the city, this extraordinary cliff face carries a trilingual inscription commissioned by Achaemenid king Darius I around 522–486 BCE in Old Persian, Elamite, and Babylonian. The site was instrumental in deciphering cuneiform script. Additional prehistoric rock art and a Parthian relief are also present. Verify transport options and entrance fees locally.
Kermanshah Grand Bazaar
The historic bazaar in the city centre is one of the largest in western Iran, with sections for spices, textiles, copperware, and foodstuffs. It functions primarily as a working commercial market rather than a tourist attraction, which makes it a genuine window into daily life. Friday and religious holiday closures apply; mornings are generally the busiest time.
Quri Qala Cave
Located roughly 90 km northwest of the city, Quri Qala is considered one of the longest water caves in Iran. Guided boat tours operate through lit sections of the cave. Opening hours and seasonal access vary — confirm before making the journey.
Anahita Temple, Kangavar
About 95 km northeast of Kermanshah near the town of Kangavar, the remains of a large stone platform traditionally attributed to a temple dedicated to the goddess Anahita (Hellenistic–Parthian period) are worth a stop if travelling toward Hamadan.
Other Sites
- Falak-ol-Aflak-adjacent museums and local parks — The city has several smaller museums; verify current ones open to visitors locally.
- Sar Pol-e Zahab rock reliefs — Elamite-era carvings near the Iraqi border, approximately 120 km west; check road conditions and security advisories before visiting border-adjacent areas.
Food & Drink
Kermanshah province is noted for its distinctive cuisine within the broader context of Iranian food. The region's most famous product is roghan kermanshahi (clarified butter made from sheep's milk), used widely in local cooking and sold as a prized food gift. Walnuts, grown extensively in the Zagros valleys, feature in many dishes and sweets.
Kale pache (a slow-cooked offal soup, traditionally eaten as a morning meal) and biryani kermanshahi (a saffron-seasoned lamb rice dish distinct from South Asian biryani) are local staples worth seeking out. Local breads — particularly nan-e taftun and nan-e lavash baked in traditional wood-fired ovens — are of consistently high quality.
The city has a good range of traditional teahouses (chaykhane) and family restaurants centred around the bazaar and Taq-e Bostan park area. Alcohol is not legally available in Iran. Fresh fruit juices, doogh (yoghurt drink), and tea are the standard accompaniments to meals. Vegetarian options exist but may be limited in smaller establishments; communicating dietary needs in advance or in writing in Farsi is advisable.
Shopping
The Grand Bazaar is the principal shopping destination. Practical purchases worth considering include roghan kermanshahi (clarified butter, often vacuum-sealed for travel), local walnut products, dried fruit, and saffron. Copperware and hand-woven textiles — including Kurdish-style kelim rugs and kilim bags — are produced in the region and available in the bazaar.
For handcrafts, look for shops specialising in giveh (traditional woven shoes) and local musical instruments associated with Kurdish folk music. Prices in the bazaar are generally not fixed for non-staple goods; polite negotiation is normal and expected. Check customs regulations in your home country before purchasing antiques or items of apparent historical significance, as export of genuine antiques is prohibited under Iranian law.
Practical Information
Emergency Numbers
Iran's general emergency numbers — police (110), ambulance (115), fire (125) — are nationally standardised, but verify that these are current and functional before relying on them. Your accommodation can assist in contacting services.
Medical Care
Kermanshah has public hospitals and private clinics. For non-emergency care, ask your accommodation to recommend a reputable clinic. Ensure your travel insurance explicitly covers Iran, as standard policies often exclude countries under sanctions or travel advisories.
Time and Business Hours
The Iranian working week runs Sunday through Thursday; Friday is the weekly rest day. Government offices and many businesses close on Thursday afternoons. Bank hours and bazaar rhythms vary; mornings are generally the most reliable time to find services open.
Electricity
Iran uses 220V/50Hz with European-style two-round-pin (Type C/F) sockets. Bring a universal adaptor if needed.
Photography
Photographing military installations, government buildings, airports, and security checkpoints is prohibited. At archaeological sites, rules vary — check signage and ask guides. Always ask before photographing individuals.
Safety
Kermanshah city itself has not been the site of significant security incidents in recent years, and day-to-day urban life is calm for the most part. Travellers should, however, consult their home government's current travel advisory for Iran before and during any trip, as the broader geopolitical context affecting western Iran — including proximity to the Iraqi border — means advisory levels can change.
The region around Sar Pol-e Zahab and areas very close to the Iraqi border warrant extra attention to current conditions before travel. The 2017 earthquake (magnitude 7.3) caused significant damage in border districts; infrastructure in some peripheral areas may still be affected — confirm road and site access locally.
As in any city, standard urban precautions apply: be aware of your surroundings, keep copies of your passport and visa documents separate from the originals, and register with your embassy or consulate if your country offers that service.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Kermanshah is a majority-Kurdish city and one of the most significant centres of Kurdish culture in Iran. Kurdish music — particularly the traditions of the tanbur (a long-necked lute with spiritual significance in the Yarsani/Ahl-e Haqq religion) — has deep roots here. Visitors may encounter live musical performances in cultural centres or informal settings, particularly during local festivals.
The Yarsani faith (also called Ahl-e Haqq), an ancient syncretic religion indigenous to the Kurdish regions, originated partly in this area. Many residents identify with this tradition alongside or in addition to Islam. Visitors should approach questions about local religion with respect and curiosity rather than assumption.
Dress code: Iran's public dress code applies. Women must wear a headscarf (hijab) and loose-fitting, non-transparent clothing covering the arms and legs when in public. Men should avoid sleeveless tops in public spaces. These requirements apply to all visitors regardless of their own religion or nationality.
Persian and Kurdish are both used daily; a few words of greeting in either language are well received. Hospitality is taken seriously — accepting tea or a small offering when invited into a shop or home is considered courteous.
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