Overview
Varanasi — also known as Kashi or Benares — sits on the western bank of the Ganges in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is widely regarded as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and holds profound significance for Hindus, Buddhists, and Jains alike. The city's spiritual identity is inseparable from the river that borders it: the Ganges here is considered sacred, and daily rituals along its banks have continued for millennia.
The roughly 84 ghats (stone steps descending to the river) form the city's living heart. Some are used for bathing and prayer, others for laundry, and two — Manikarnika and Harishchandra — serve as open-air cremation grounds, operating around the clock. Witnessing these ceremonies is a profound, if confronting, experience; visitors are expected to observe quietly and respectfully.
Beyond the river, Varanasi is a dense, layered city of narrow lanes, temples, tea stalls, and workshops where artisans weave the celebrated Banarasi silk. It is also a center of classical Hindustani music, Sanskrit scholarship, and Ayurvedic practice — dimensions of the city that reward travelers who look beyond the ghats.
Before You Go
Visas
Most foreign nationals require a visa to enter India. Requirements, e-visa eligibility, and processing times change periodically. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section and the official Indian Bureau of Immigration website for current, country-specific information before booking.
Health
Consult a travel-medicine clinic well before departure. Recommended precautions often include typhoid, hepatitis A and B, and routine vaccinations — verify with your doctor. The Ganges carries high levels of bacteria and industrial pollutants; avoid swallowing river water even if you choose to bathe. Bottled or filtered water is standard practice for drinking and brushing teeth in Varanasi.
What to Pack
- Lightweight, loose, modest clothing; shoulders and knees should be covered when entering temples
- A light shawl or scarf for temple entry and cooler evenings (October–February)
- Sturdy, easy-to-remove footwear (shoes are removed at temple entrances frequently)
- Sunscreen, insect repellent, and a personal hand sanitizer
- Cash in Indian Rupees; ATMs are available but can be unreliable in the old city lanes
Getting There
By Air
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) serves Varanasi with domestic connections to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and other major Indian cities. A limited number of international flights operate seasonally; most international visitors connect through Delhi (DEL) or Mumbai (BOM). Verify current routes and schedules with airlines directly, as service changes frequently.
By Train
Varanasi Junction (BSB) is a major railhead on the Indian Railways network, well connected to Delhi, Kolkata, Agra, Mumbai, and Lucknow. Trains such as the Vande Bharat Express (Delhi–Varanasi) offer faster journey times on some routes. Book tickets in advance through the official IRCTC platform, particularly during festival seasons and school holidays, when trains fill quickly.
By Road
Varanasi is accessible by state and private buses from Lucknow, Allahabad (Prayagraj), Agra, and other Uttar Pradesh cities. Journey times by road can be long; trains are generally more comfortable for longer distances. If arriving by private vehicle, note that the old city's lanes are not navigable by car.
Getting Around
The old city — where most temples, ghats, and markets are located — is best explored on foot. The lanes (called gallis) are narrow, often flooded at festival times, and completely impassable for vehicles; a willingness to walk and get occasionally lost is part of the experience.
Auto-rickshaws and e-rickshaws are the standard mode for moving between the old city fringe and areas like Cantonment, the railway station, and the airport road. Agree on a fare before boarding or confirm whether a meter is in use.
Cycle-rickshaws are practical for shorter distances along wider streets and offer a slower, lower-emissions alternative.
Boats on the Ganges are an essential way to see the ghats. Both shared and private rowing boats operate from most major ghats. Pre-dawn and early morning are particularly popular times for a river journey. Negotiate the fare clearly before setting out; the sunrise boat ride from Dasaswamedh Ghat is one of the most frequented tourist activities in the city.
Ride-hailing apps (Ola and Uber) operate in Varanasi and can be useful for airport and station transfers, though pickup may require walking to a navigable road from the old city.
Things to See & Do
The Ghats
Walking the full length of the ghats — ideally in the early morning — is the defining Varanasi experience. Key stops include Dasaswamedh Ghat, where the elaborate evening Ganga Aarti (fire ceremony) takes place nightly; Assi Ghat at the southern end, a popular gathering point for residents and visitors; and Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats, the cremation sites. At the latter two, photography is strongly discouraged and silence is expected.
Ganga Aarti
The nightly aarti at Dasaswamedh Ghat draws large crowds. The ceremony begins after sunset; timing shifts with the season. Arrive early to secure a good vantage point on the steps or consider watching from a boat on the river. Entry is free, though touts may attempt to charge for access to certain viewing spots — this is not official.
Temples
- Kashi Vishwanath Temple (the Golden Temple): One of the most sacred Shiva temples in India. Non-Hindus face entry restrictions to the inner sanctum; rules and access can change — verify locally. A large surrounding temple complex was developed in recent years.
- Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple: An important active temple with a more accessible atmosphere for visitors of all backgrounds.
- Durga Temple (Durga Kund): Notable for its red-ochre exterior and resident monkeys; hold bags securely.
Sarnath
Approximately 10 km from Varanasi city center, Sarnath is the site where the Buddha is said to have delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. The archaeological park contains the Dhamek Stupa, excavated monastery ruins, and a museum housing the Ashoka Lion Capital — the national emblem of India. This is a half-day trip comfortably done by auto-rickshaw.
Ramnagar Fort
Located on the opposite (eastern) bank of the Ganges, this 18th-century fort served as the seat of the Maharaja of Varanasi. It houses a museum with vintage cars, palanquins, and royal artifacts. Verify current opening hours and access before visiting.
Classical Music and Culture
Varanasi is a living center of Hindustani classical music. Evening concerts (often informal, at music schools or cultural venues) are occasionally open to visitors — ask at your accommodation or check local noticeboards. The city was home to the sitar maestro Ravi Shankar and remains associated with the gharana tradition.
Food & Drink
Varanasi has a strong tradition of vegetarian food, shaped by its religious character. Street food is central to daily life and is generally best sampled at busy stalls with high turnover.
Things to Eat
- Kachori sabzi: Deep-fried bread served with spiced potato curry; a classic Banarasi breakfast
- Tamatar chaat: A tangy, spiced tomato-based street snack unique to Varanasi
- Baati chokha: Baked wheat balls with mashed spiced vegetables, a regional staple
- Lassi: The Varanasi version is thick, rich, and often served in clay cups (kulhads); the Godowlia and Vishwanath Gali areas have long-established lassi sellers
- Malaiyo: A seasonal winter sweet — airy, saffron-tinted milk foam — available roughly November through February
- Paan: The betel-leaf preparation from Varanasi is famous across India; try a plain sweet meetha paan as a post-meal digestif
Practicalities
Alcohol is not widely available in the old city given its religious character, though some restaurants in the Cantonment and Assi Ghat areas hold liquor licenses — verify locally. Be cautious with street food if you have a sensitive stomach; opt for cooked items served hot. Avoid cut fruit and chutneys from unknown sources if you are newly arrived.
Shopping
Varanasi is the production center for Banarasi silk, one of India's most revered textile traditions — its brocade saris, with gold and silver zari weaving, are used at weddings and ceremonies across the country. Serious buyers can visit weaver workshops in the Varanasi Cantonment area or in the suburb of Madanpura; seeing the jacquard handlooms in operation is worthwhile regardless of whether you buy.
Authentic Banarasi silk is expensive; if a price seems very low, the fabric is almost certainly synthetic or blended. Look for government-certified emporiums (such as those under UP Handlooms) for more reliable provenance, though comparing prices across multiple shops is still advisable.
Other notable purchases include rudraksha beads (sold near temples; quality varies widely), brassware and bronze figurines, woodblock-print fabrics, and hand-painted items featuring Ganga imagery. Bargaining is expected in informal markets but is not appropriate in fixed-price government stores.
The Vishwanath Gali and Godowlia market areas are the most concentrated shopping zones, though the lanes leading to the ghats have numerous smaller stalls.
Practical Information
Money
Indian Rupees are required for most transactions. ATMs exist near Godowlia, the Cantonment area, and near the train station, though machines in old-city lanes can run out of cash, particularly around major festivals. Carry sufficient cash when venturing deep into the galis. Currency exchange is available at banks and authorized money changers; verify exchange rates before transacting.
Connectivity
SIM cards for Indian networks can be purchased at the airport or authorized retailers in the city; foreign nationals typically need a passport and visa copy to register. Wi-Fi is available at most mid-range and upper-range hotels and at some cafés near Assi Ghat.
Electricity
India uses 230V/50Hz with Type C, D, and M plugs. Power cuts can occur, especially in summer; hotels with generators are worth noting if consistent power is important.
Festivals and Crowds
Dev Deepawali (held on Kartik Purnima, usually November) transforms the ghats with hundreds of thousands of lamps. Mahashivratri draws enormous pilgrims to the Kashi Vishwanath temple. During these periods, accommodation books out months in advance and streets become extremely congested — plan accordingly or embrace it as part of the experience.
Safety
Varanasi is visited by millions of domestic and international tourists each year and is generally considered safe for travel. The common concerns are petty and transactional rather than violent.
Touts and scams are the most frequent issue. Common setups include: rickshaw drivers diverting you to a cousin's silk shop, strangers offering 'free' tea before requesting money, and unofficial 'guides' charging for entry to sites that are publicly accessible. A politely firm "no thank you" and walking on is usually effective. Engaging a licensed guide through your hotel or a government-recognized agency reduces this friction significantly.
Boats: Agree on fares clearly before boarding and confirm whether the quoted price is per person or per boat. Predawn and nighttime boat rides are popular but ensure you use a reputable ghat with other people present.
Traffic: Road traffic in Varanasi is dense and chaotic by most Western standards. Cross streets carefully; there is no reliable pedestrian right-of-way culture.
Cremation ghats: These are active, solemn sites. Do not photograph without explicit permission. Do not enter roped or restricted areas. Ignore anyone who approaches to offer unauthorized guided tours of the burning ghats; this is a known scam entry point.
Solo women travelers report that the old city lanes, particularly after dark, can feel uncomfortable due to persistent attention. Traveling with others in the evening and dressing conservatively reduces, but does not eliminate, unwanted interactions.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Varanasi's religious life is not a performance staged for tourists — it is the daily reality of a city where faith saturates commerce, architecture, food, and time. Visitors who approach with that understanding tend to have richer, more respectful experiences.
At temples: Remove footwear before entering. Dress modestly (covered shoulders and knees as a baseline; some temples require a full dhoti or dupatta). Do not take photographs inside sanctuaries without confirming it is permitted. During active puja (prayer), observe quietly rather than moving through as if on a tour.
At the ghats: Bathing pilgrims are engaged in a private religious act; staring or pointing cameras at them is intrusive. The cremation ghats in particular require complete silence, no photography, and respectful distance. Grief is present — treat it as you would at a funeral anywhere.
Ganga Aarti: The evening ceremony is open to all. Receiving the sacred flame (aarti) passed around during the ceremony is fine to participate in; a small offering is customary but not obligatory.
General: Varanasi can be overwhelming — the noise, smells, crowds, and intensity of its spiritual life are unlike most cities. Many travelers find the first day disorienting and the second day revelatory. Building in unscheduled time to sit by the river, drink chai, and simply observe tends to yield the deepest impressions.
