Overview
Hemavan and Tärnaby are two small villages situated in the municipality of Storuman in Västerbotten County, in the mountainous far northwest of Sweden, close to the Norwegian border. Though each village is modest in size, together they form one of northern Sweden's most established mountain resort areas, drawing visitors for skiing in winter and hiking and fishing in the warmer months.
Tärnaby is perhaps best known as the birthplace of Ingemar Stenmark, one of the most decorated alpine ski racers in history, and a small museum in the village honors his legacy. Hemavan, roughly 18 kilometres to the north, is home to the region's main ski area and marks the southern terminus of Kungsleden — Sweden's famous long-distance hiking trail, which stretches around 440 kilometres northward to Abisko.
The landscape here is defined by rounded fells, birch forests, clear rivers, and a sense of genuine remoteness. Infrastructure is modest but functional. This is not a flashy resort destination; it rewards travelers who prioritize nature and outdoor activity over nightlife or luxury amenities.
The Vindelälven river, which begins near Hemavan, is one of Europe's last large unspoiled river systems and is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage area as part of the Laponian Area's broader wilderness designation.
Before You Go
Visas
Sweden is a Schengen Area member. For visa requirements specific to your nationality, visit TravelerPulse's Visas section and consult the Swedish Migration Agency (Migrationsverket) at their official website.
Seasons and conditions
- Winter (December–April): The main ski season. Snow cover is generally reliable at this latitude, but conditions vary year to year. Temperatures can drop well below -10°C; pack appropriate layering, wind protection, and waterproofs.
- Spring (May–June): Snow lingers on higher ground. Roads and trails may be partially inaccessible. Daylight increases rapidly toward the midnight sun period.
- Summer (June–August): Hiking and fishing season. Expect long daylight hours and mild temperatures on lower ground, cooler and windier on the fells. Mosquitoes can be significant in July, especially near water.
- Autumn (September–October): Foliage colour (Swedish: höstfärger) is striking. Bears may be active before hibernation; follow local guidance.
What to bring
Whatever the season, layers and waterproof outerwear are essential. There are limited shopping options in both villages, so bring specialized gear from home or purchase it in larger cities before arriving. A basic first-aid kit and navigation tools (map and compass, not just a phone) are advisable for any fell hiking.
Getting There
By air
The nearest airport with scheduled domestic services is Hemavan Tärnaby Airport (HMV), located just outside Hemavan. Amapola Flyg and other operators have historically served routes connecting to Stockholm Arlanda, but schedules and operators change; verify current timetables directly with the airport or booking platforms before travel.
By road
Both villages lie along Swedish road 45, sometimes called the Inlandsvägen (Inland Road). Driving from Umeå takes roughly four to five hours; from Stockholm, plan for a full-day drive of around 10–11 hours. A car gives the most flexibility, especially in winter. Studded or winter tyres are legally required in snowy conditions in Sweden.
By bus
Länstrafiken Västernorrland and Länstrafiken Västerbotten operate regional bus services into the area. Journey times from Umeå or Östersund are long. Check current timetables with the relevant regional transport authority before planning your trip.
By rail
There is no direct rail connection to Hemavan or Tärnaby. The nearest significant rail stations are in Vilhelmina or Storuman, from which onward bus connections are needed. Verify current connections locally.
Getting Around
Within both villages, most points of interest are reachable on foot. The 18-kilometre road between Hemavan and Tärnaby is short enough to drive in under 20 minutes, but there is no frequent local bus service linking them — having your own vehicle or arranging a transfer is practical.
In winter, snowmobile trails are extensive in the area, and rentals may be available locally; verify with local operators. Cross-country ski tracks often connect key points between the villages during the ski season.
For accessing trailheads along Kungsleden or reaching more remote fishing lakes, a car is the most reliable option. The mountain environment means some tracks are only passable with high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicles, particularly in early spring.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in the area is dominated by mountain lodges (fjällhotell), smaller guesthouses (pensionat), self-catering cabins (stugor), and STF (Svenska Turistföreningen) mountain stations along Kungsleden. The STF station at Hemavan provides hostel-style accommodation and is a practical base for hikers.
For the ski season, book well in advance — particularly over Swedish school holiday weeks (sportlov), when the area sees its heaviest domestic tourism. Self-catering cabins are popular for families and groups.
There is no large hotel chain presence here. Verify current properties, availability, and rates through booking platforms or the local tourist office (turistbyrå). Camping in the Swedish wilderness is permitted under allemansrätten (the right of public access), but follow leave-no-trace principles and observe any local restrictions.
Things to See & Do
Winter activities
- Skiing at Hemavan: The Hemavan ski area has a range of pistes suitable for different ability levels. It is relatively uncrowded compared to more southerly Swedish resorts. Lift passes, rental equipment, and ski school services are available; verify current pricing on the resort's official site.
- Cross-country skiing: Extensive groomed track networks connect the villages and extend into the surrounding terrain. The tracks are generally well-maintained during the season.
- Snowshoeing and snowmobile safaris: Guided options exist; ask locally or at your accommodation for current providers.
- Northern lights (Aurora Borealis): The area's latitude and low light pollution give reasonable viewing prospects on clear, dark nights between autumn and early spring.
Summer and year-round
- Kungsleden hiking: Hemavan is the southern trailhead. Day walks along the first sections of Kungsleden are accessible for most walkers; longer sections require solid planning, navigation skills, and appropriate gear.
- Fishing: The Vindelälven and surrounding lakes support brown trout, grayling, and Arctic char. A Swedish fishing licence is required; regulations vary by water — verify with Sportfiskarna or local licence vendors.
- Ingemar Stenmark Museum (Tärnaby): A modest local museum dedicated to the ski legend; verify opening hours locally before visiting.
- Wildlife observation: Reindeer herds are commonly seen; moose, eagles, and — at a distance — bear and wolverine inhabit the wider area.
Food & Drink
Dining options are limited and centred on the villages' hotels and a small number of local restaurants and cafés. Expect traditional Swedish home-cooking style dishes: hearty meat stews, reindeer (renstek or renkött), elk (älg), and local fish. Reindeer meat dishes in particular reflect the area's Sami cultural heritage.
Supermarkets in both Hemavan and Tärnaby stock basic provisions. For self-catering, especially if hiking, purchasing supplies in Tärnaby or Hemavan before heading into the mountains is sensible — there are no resupply points along remote trail sections.
Alcohol is available through Systembolaget, Sweden's state-run off-licence retailer. Verify the nearest Systembolaget location and opening hours, as rural branches can have limited hours.
During peak ski season, the main resort facilities expand their food and beverage offerings. Outside the ski season and summer hiking period, some establishments may be closed — call ahead or check with accommodation providers.
Practical Information
Money and connectivity
Card payment is accepted at most established businesses in Sweden, including this area. ATMs are scarce — bring sufficient cash or ensure your card works widely. Mobile and data coverage can be patchy on the fells and along remote trail sections; download offline maps before departure.
Health and emergency services
The nearest hospital facilities with full emergency capacity are in Storuman or Umeå. There is a health centre (vårdcentral) serving the local municipality, but for serious medical emergencies, evacuation to a larger facility would be required. The general Swedish emergency number is 112.
Reindeer herding areas
Much of this land is active Sami reindeer herding territory. Respect fences, avoid approaching or disturbing reindeer herds, and do not let dogs run loose near animals. This is both a legal requirement in some contexts and a matter of cultural respect.
Daylight extremes
In June, the sun barely sets — a remarkable experience, but it disrupts sleep for some visitors. Bring a sleep mask. Conversely, December days are very short, with only a few hours of usable daylight.
Safety
Hemavan and Tärnaby are generally safe destinations with very low levels of crime. The primary safety considerations are environmental.
Mountain and weather hazards
Weather on the fells can change rapidly at any time of year. Even in summer, temperature drops, wind, and fog can create dangerous conditions for unprepared hikers. Always check the Swedish Meteorological and Hydrological Institute (SMHI) forecast before heading into the mountains, carry navigation tools, and tell someone your planned route and return time.
Avalanche awareness
In winter and spring, avalanche risk exists on steep slopes. Check avalanche bulletins (available through Lavinprognoser Sverige or relevant authorities) before skiing off-piste or hiking in avalanche terrain.
Wildlife
Bears (björn) are present in the wider region. The risk of a bear encounter is low, but carrying a bear bell and knowing basic guidance on bear behaviour is advisable for remote hiking. Reindeer on roads are a genuine hazard for drivers, particularly at dawn, dusk, and night.
Local Culture & Etiquette
The Hemavan–Tärnaby area sits within the traditional territory of the South Sami people (Sydsamerna), one of several Sami groups indigenous to Scandinavia. Reindeer herding remains an active practice and an important part of local identity and economy. Visitors should approach this context with respect — the landscape is not simply a recreational backdrop but a living cultural landscape.
Tärnaby's association with Ingemar Stenmark gives the village a particular place in Swedish sporting history. Stenmark won 86 World Cup races between 1974 and 1989, a record that stood for decades. Local pride in this legacy is genuine.
The broader concept of friluftsliv — outdoor life as an intrinsic part of Swedish culture — is felt strongly here. Locals of all ages participate in outdoor activities year-round, and there is an understated, practical approach to the wilderness that visitors will find refreshing.
