Overview
Onaway is a small city of roughly 800 residents in Presque Isle County, situated in Michigan's northern Lower Peninsula about 30 miles southeast of Cheboygan. It sits near the southern end of Black Lake, one of the larger inland lakes in Michigan and one of the few places in the Great Lakes region where lake sturgeon — an ancient, protected fish — can be observed and, under strict regulation, fished.
The surrounding landscape is defined by second-growth northern hardwood and mixed forest, open farmland, and a network of rivers and wetlands that empty into Lake Huron to the east. Pigeon River Country State Forest, a significant tract of wild land managed for elk and other wildlife, lies to the west and southwest.
Onaway functions primarily as a small commercial center and access point for anglers, hunters, hunters, paddlers, and leaf-peepers rather than as a destination in itself. Visitors who appreciate unhurried, rural northern Michigan will find it a practical and affordable base.
Getting There
By Car
Onaway is most practically reached by car. It lies on M-33, a state highway that runs north–south through the region. From Alpena (roughly 45 miles southeast) take US-23 north then head west on local roads. From Petoskey (roughly 45 miles west) take US-31 east then connect via M-68 and M-33. From Gaylord (roughly 35 miles southwest) take M-32 east to M-33 north.
Nearest Airports
Charlevoix Municipal Airport, Pellston Regional Airport, and Alpena County Regional Airport are the closest general-aviation and regional airports; all are roughly 40–60 miles away. Traverse City's Cherry Capital Airport (TVC) is the nearest airport with more regular commercial service, approximately 90 miles to the southwest. Car rental is strongly advised — public transit connections from any of these airports to Onaway do not exist in any practical form.
By Bus
Scheduled intercity bus service does not serve Onaway directly. Verify any regional transit options locally before travel.
Getting Around
A personal vehicle is essential for getting around Onaway and its surroundings. The city itself is walkable for its small downtown core, but attractions — Black Lake access points, Pigeon River Country, the Black Mountain Recreation Area, and nearby towns — all require driving. Roads in this area can be unpaved or lightly maintained in rural sections, particularly forest roads; a vehicle with reasonable ground clearance is useful if you plan to explore backcountry areas.
Bike-friendly infrastructure is limited. There are no rideshare services reliably operating in this area, so visitors should plan accordingly.
Where to Stay
Lodging in Onaway itself is limited. The area's most common accommodation model is seasonal cottage or cabin rental on or near Black Lake, which can be found through platforms such as VRBO or Airbnb. These tend to book well in advance for summer weekends.
Onaway State Park offers a campground on Black Lake; reservations are handled through the Michigan DNR's reservation system (michigan.gov/dnr). Additional campground options exist in Pigeon River Country State Forest, some of which are first-come, first-served dispersed sites.
For motel-style lodging, nearby Cheboygan and Gaylord have a broader selection of chain and independent properties. Verify current availability and rates directly with any property before booking.
Things to See & Do
Black Lake
Black Lake is Onaway's defining natural feature. At roughly 10,000 acres, it supports fishing for walleye, perch, bass, and the seasonally regulated lake sturgeon. Boat launches are available around the lake; verify current access points and any seasonal restrictions locally or through the Michigan DNR (michigan.gov/dnr).
Lake Sturgeon Observation and Fishing
Black Lake is one of Michigan's premier locations for lake sturgeon, a species that can live over 100 years and reach considerable size. The Michigan DNR runs a closely regulated spearing season on Black Lake typically in winter; rules, licenses, and dates change annually and must be confirmed directly with the DNR before any participation.
Pigeon River Country State Forest
This large state forest to the southwest hosts one of the largest free-roaming elk herds east of the Mississippi. Dawn and dusk drives along forest roads — particularly during the September rut — offer reliable elk viewing. The forest also has hiking trails, dispersed camping, and trout streams. Check michigan.gov/dnr for current access and camping information.
Black Mountain Recreation Area
Located a few miles north of Onaway near Onaway State Park, Black Mountain offers mountain biking, ORV trails, and cross-country ski trails depending on season. Onaway State Park itself sits on Black Lake's eastern shore and has a campground and swimming beach — verify availability and reservations through the Michigan DNR.
Onaway Sturgeon Festival
Onaway historically hosts a Sturgeon Festival celebrating the lake's sturgeon population; verify current dates and programming locally as schedules change year to year.
Food & Drink
Onaway's dining options are modest and in keeping with its size. Expect a handful of local diners, small restaurants, and bar-and-grill establishments serving standard American comfort food — burgers, whitefish, perch, and breakfast plates are common. Specific restaurant names and hours change frequently in small towns; the safest approach is to check Google Maps or Yelp for current listings before your visit.
For a wider selection of groceries or specialty food and drink, Cheboygan (roughly 30 miles north) and Gaylord (roughly 35 miles southwest) offer more options. If you are staying at a campground or renting a cottage, stocking up in one of those towns before arriving in Onaway is a practical habit.
Practical Information
Cell Service and Internet
Cell coverage can be inconsistent in the forested and rural areas surrounding Onaway. Download offline maps (e.g., via Google Maps or Maps.me) before leaving a city with reliable service. Onaway's small downtown typically has usable coverage on major carriers, but do not rely on connectivity in the backcountry.
Hunting and Fishing Licenses
Michigan requires state fishing and hunting licenses for most activities. These can be purchased online through the Michigan DNR website or at licensed retailers. Rules for sturgeon specifically are highly specific — read them carefully and in full before participating.
Emergency Services
Onaway has a local police department and fire department. The nearest hospital with full emergency services is in Cheboygan or Rogers City; verify the nearest facility before your trip. In a life-threatening emergency, dial 911.
Seasonal Considerations
Winters in northern Michigan are cold and snowy; roads can become hazardous. Black flies and mosquitoes are active in late spring and early summer — bring insect repellent. Deer hunting season in November brings significant traffic to the region's forests.
Safety
Onaway and the surrounding region are generally safe. The primary safety considerations are environmental rather than crime-related: be alert when driving forest roads at dawn and dusk due to large wildlife (deer, elk, black bear) crossing roads. Inform someone of your plans if hiking or paddling in remote areas of Pigeon River Country.
Weather can shift quickly in northern Michigan; pack layers and rain gear regardless of season. Ice and snow create driving hazards from late November through March. If ice fishing on Black Lake in winter, verify ice thickness through local guidance before venturing out — conditions vary significantly year to year.
