Mazar-i-Sharif International Airport

Mazar-i-Sharif International Airport is a modest facility, and seasoned travelers will tell you to set expectations accordingly when it comes to dining. The terminal offers a small number of tea stalls and simple canteen-style counters rather than sit-down restaurants, but what you find there can be genuinely rewarding. Strong, cardamom-scented green tea — the Afghan staple known as qahwa — arrives quickly and is always on offer, making the wait between check-in and boarding considerably more pleasant than you might expect.

The food available airside leans heavily on the northern Afghan pantry, which is one of the country's most distinctive regional cuisines. Look for bolani, the crisp flatbread stuffed with potato or leek, sold at simple snack counters near the departure area. You may also find portions of shorwa, a hearty lamb and vegetable broth that doubles as both soup and stew, served with fresh nan baked somewhere close enough that it arrives still warm. It is humble, honest food, and on a cold morning in Balkh province, it hits exactly right.

Because the airport has limited commercial development, most travelers eat before they arrive — and locals will strongly advise you to do the same. The city's bazaars and chaikhanas are only minutes away and offer far richer experiences, from slow-roasted Kabuli pulao piled with raisins and carrots to freshly grilled chapli kebab. If you do find yourself relying on what the terminal provides, embrace it for what it is: an unpolished but sincere taste of Afghan northern hospitality, poured into a small glass of tea and handed to you with a smile.