Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport

Makassar's Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport may not be the country's busiest hub, but its dining scene punches well above its weight. The domestic terminal is where most of the action is, with a cluster of local warung-style eateries and branded Indonesian chains lining the departures hall. If you arrive hungry — and you should — head straight for the food court near Gate D, where the aromas of fresh broth and chili paste signal exactly the kind of honest, flavourful cooking this city is famous for.

Coto Makassar is the dish you cannot leave without trying, and fortunately, airport vendors take it seriously. This slow-braised beef offal soup, rich with candlenut and lemongrass, is served with ketupat rice cakes and a side of sambal — comfort food with genuine depth. Konro, the grilled or braised spare rib specialty, also makes an appearance at a handful of stalls that open early enough to catch morning flights. Both dishes reflect the Bugis-Makassarese culinary tradition that defines this corner of Sulawesi.

For international travellers transiting through the newer international wing, options are more limited but improving. The small café near the international departure lounge offers decent Indonesian rice dishes alongside Western-style sandwiches and strong Torajan arabica coffee — a genuine regional highlight worth a cup before any flight. Prices throughout the airport are reasonable by Indonesian standards, and the staff are accustomed to travellers with tight connections, so service tends to be quick and unfussy. Eat here and you leave Makassar with the right taste in your mouth.